Is there such a thing as too much fried chicken?
It’s a rhetorical question, of course. That crispy goodness has always been popular, but in recent years, its appeal has gone off the charts. Whether we’re talking fried chicken with waffles, crispy chicken sandwiches or another delicious incarnation, crunchy poultry has taken over eateries across the country — including in Oakland, where high-profile chef Matt Horn runs Kowbird.
It has been a rough last few months for Horn, who leapt to food world acclaim with the opening of his Horn Barbecue in 2020. The Oakland brisket mecca was promptly named one of Esquire Magazine’s best new restaurants in America. Food & Wine dubbed Horn one of the country’s 10 best new chefs in 2021, and Michelin Bib Gourmand honors and a James Beard nomination soon followed along with more eateries — including chicken-centric Kowbird and Matty’s Old Fashioned, both in Oakland, and a Kowbird in Las Vegas.
But legal troubles and a catastrophic fire at Horn Barbecue last November have taken their toll. Despite support from a GoFundMe campaign and grant approval from Alameda county, Horn announced in March that reopening the barbecue hot spot isn’t feasible at its original West Oakland location, which has been beset by squatters and vandals. He’s looking for another venue, he told GoFundMe supporters.
Matt Horn’s new “Kowbird” cookbook was inspired by his Oakland restaurant of the same name. (Quarto Publishing)
And with a new cookbook out in a matter of weeks — “Kowbird: Amazing Chicken Recipes from Chef Matt Horn’s Restaurant and Home Kitchen” (Quarto Publishing, $25) — Horn is looking forward. The book, which lands on May 28, offers an abundance of recipes for the bird, plus sides, sauces and desserts, from chicken smash burgers and chicken and dumplings to red beans and rice and Mississippi Mud Pie. They’re accompanied by rich commentary and eloquent musings about community, culture and what makes chicken feel like home.
Naturally, we had questions.
Q. When you opened Kowbird, what was the goal?
A. Opening Kowbird was about more than just launching a new restaurant. It was about honoring a community that has been integral to our story from the beginning. West Oakland wasn’t just a strategic choice — it was a heartfelt one. This community embraced us early on, providing the support that helped our first brand flourish. Our vision for Kowbird was twofold: to give back to the community that gave us so much and to contribute positively to the area’s ongoing narrative.
Q. In the book’s introduction, you call the cookbook “a tribute, a love letter to the South and its indomitable spirit…”
A. The Kowbird cookbook is far more than just a collection of recipes — it’s an homage to the rich, enduring spirit of the South and a celebration of its unbreakable soul. In Oakland, this spirit resonates deeply. Oakland’s unique blend of cultures and backgrounds creates a tapestry that, while reminiscent of the South in its warmth and hospitality, is distinctly its own. This city has shown me a spirit that’s both varied and unified, where every person brings a piece of their heritage to the collective, creating something uniquely Oakland.
Q. Let’s talk about the fire…
A. The fire at Horn Barbecue was a heartbreaking setback for us. That location was more than just our flagship restaurant; it was a community hub that resonated deeply with many. Horn Barbecue played a pivotal role in our community outreach, from toy drives to our annual turkey drive. It served as a partnership venue with the Warriors organization for community giving and was the base for the Horn Initiative, through which we distributed over 20,000 free meals. The loss was devastating, but it’s important to remember that it doesn’t mark the end of Horn Barbecue’s story. It’s just one chapter in a long, prosperous narrative that is far from over.
Owner and chef Matt Horn, left, surveys damage at Horn Barbecue in Oakland, Calif., on Wednesday, Nov. 22, 2023. The Oakland Fire Department is investigating a blaze which gutted the restaurant early Tuesday morning. (Jane Tyska/Bay Area News Group)
Q. You’ve said that our “love for chicken is a universal thread.” Can you expand on that?
A. The sentiment speaks volumes about the culinary fabric that binds us, a theme deeply ingrained in the ethos of our restaurants, both in the Bay Area and Las Vegas. Chicken, in its simplicity and versatility, crosses cultural boundaries and brings people together in a way few other foods can. It’s this shared love for chicken that inspires our menu, creating a space where everyone can find a dish that feels like home, yet invites them to explore new flavors and experiences. In celebrating chicken, we celebrate the shared human experience, connecting through the universal language of food.
These chicken smashburgers hail from Matt Horn’s new “Kowbird: Amazing Chicken Recipes” cookbook due out May 28. (Quarto Publishing)
Q. Big, important question! Bone-in or boneless?
A. For Horn Barbecue, I focus on bone-in cuts, as they are best suited for withstanding the long hours of smoking and direct grilling. These cuts retain moisture better and imbue a deeper flavor into the meat, essential for the authentic barbecue experience we’re known for. At Kowbird, boneless thighs and breasts. These cuts are incredibly versatile and perfect for the quicker cooking methods we employ, like frying or grilling. Boneless thighs offer juiciness and a rich flavor profile, making them ideal for our signature fried chicken sandwiches.
Q. And what should we order?
A. It would be hard to resist the allure of a crispy, perfectly seasoned boneless thigh sandwich.
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