I recently purchased a vanilla orchid from a local plant sale because the idea of growing one intrigued me. I’ve grown air plants (tillandsia) with some degree of success and have managed to keep a couple of carnivorous plants alive for several years, so I figured I was up to the challenge of growing orchids.
Like a good gardener, I did a bit of research into orchids and their growth requirements and found out that, although their care is not complicated, it is different from what most houseplants require.
Orchids, like air plants, are epiphytes, meaning they grow on things (like trees) rather than in the soil. You’ll notice that, although they are sold in pots, the pots contain either bark or sphagnum moss. Orchid roots need air circulation, but they also need some moisture. The bark or sphagnum moss allows for thorough drainage but holds just enough water to keep the roots happy. Don’t overwater – the pot should be almost completely dry before watering.
Test the moisture level by poking a wooden skewer into the pot near the root zone. If it comes out moist it’s not time to water yet. Eventually, you should be able to tell just by picking up the pot and determining how dry it is. Once it’s dry, thoroughly wet the bark. Usually orchid pots have many holes, so I like to quickly dunk the pot in a bucket of room-temperature water and let it drain thoroughly. If your pot has a saucer, be sure to pour out any excess water that may collect.
Although orchid flowers can last for weeks, they will eventually fall off and you’re left with a bare spike. If you buy off the “sad plant” markdown rack, your orchid may already be shedding its flowers. Don’t be too quick to remove that spike – phalaenopsis (moth orchids) can rebloom off its old spike. The second bloom will not be as attractive as the original in that there may not be as many flowers, and they may be smaller. Alternatively, you can cut the spike down leaving two nodes (lighter bands that start just below the flowers) or just cut it at the base. I recommend using a new razor blade to leave a clean cut.
Related Articles
Master Gardener: What’s happening to our naval orange tree?
How to make your garden more attractive for hummingbirds
What caused a healthy citrus tree to experience a sudden die-off?
What that bug crawling all over your plants is and what you can do about it
What you need to know about the oriental fruit fly quarantine
Orchids benefit from regular fertilization. Luckily, there are fertilizers that are specially formulated for orchids. During the spring and summer growing season they should be fertilized weekly. When using water-soluble granules (or liquid concentrate), dilute to ¼ strength of what the package recommends. For instance, if the directions state ¼ teaspoon per gallon, you can dissolve ¼ teaspoon into a gallon jug of water, then take a quart of that mixture and pour it into a second gallon jug, then add 3 quarts of water to make the dilute fertilizer solution. Only fertilize after watering since the fertilizer could burn the dry roots. Regular fertilization will encourage healthy upright growth and flowering.
As with all flowering plants, orchids need bright indirect sunlight. Leaves should be light green with an upright growth habit rather than dark green and droopy.
Los Angeles County
mglosangeleshelpline@ucdavis.edu; 626-586-1988; http://celosangeles.ucanr.edu/UC_Master_Gardener_Program/
Orange County
ucceocmghotline@ucanr.edu; http://mgorange.ucanr.edu/
Riverside County
anrmgriverside@ucanr.edu; https://ucanr.edu/sites/RiversideMG/
San Bernardino County
mgsanbern@ucanr.edu; 909-387-2182; http://mgsb.ucanr.edu