In the wrong hands, a salad is a vapid strategy for healthful eating. In Hetty McKinnon’s hands, a salad is a gallivanting exploration of flavor, place and texture.
“Neighborhood: Hearty Salads and Plant-Based Recipes from Home and Abroad,” is McKinnon’s second cookbook. “Twice every week,” beginning in 2011, she writes, “I would cook healthy and hearty plant-based salad boxes, stack them into my bicycle basket” and deliver them to locals in her then-home of Sydney. She and her family moved to Brooklyn, New York, in 2015, and McKinnon published “Neighborhood” in 2017. Lucky for roughage lovers, McKinnon’s salad daring also made the transcontinental move.
Hearty economy
At the book’s outset, McKinnon banishes the notion that salads are consumptive meals: frail assemblages that keen and collapse if you look at them sideways. No, salads can — and should — be both sound and protean.
Her four-point approach to using leftover salad is alone worth the book’s price of entry: 1) “put an egg on it”: self-explanatory; 2) “blend it into a soup”: blender, salad, plop, broth, whirr; 3) “make a grilled cheese”: melty vegetable crunch, yes; 4) “go kuku!”: beat a bunch of eggs, add the leftover salad, bake into the Iranian version of a frittata. Salad as adaptable bedrock. Who would have imagined?
Vegetable traipsings
The salad-making blueprint of “Neighborhood” comprises six chapters, taking the reader from McKinnon’s current home in the United States back to Australia, with stops in France, the Mediterranean and Asia. The recipes strive for inspiration not purity.
Chili is molly-whopped into a substantive dish of various beans, bell peppers and tomatoes served with a vibrant sauce of yogurt, avocado, cucumber and lime. A salade niçoise becomes greenified, with fried green beans, oozy steamed eggs, lentils and caper mayonnaise. A dressing of honey, fresh ginger and toasted sesame oil napes quinoa, edamame and sauteed bok choy. The salad, in McKinnon’s kitchen, wonders and wanders, and the author heeds its inquisitiveness.
A bonus chapter stars dessert recipes, like a three-ingredient raspberry mousse and rice pudding with caramelized pears, from some of McKinnon’s friends. “Neighborhood” stands without a coda. McKinnon cannot help herself, though. She, like so many of the best cooks and recipe developers, is a giver.