South Korea is having a moment. K-pop superstars BTS are one of the biggest bands on the planet while “KPop Demon Hunters” has racked up more than 500 million views as the most-watched film in the history of Netflix.
From kimchi to must-have skincare, we can’t get enough of all things Korean, evidenced by UK visitor numbers increasing 17% between 2024 and 2025. Now that figure looks set to rocket with Virgin Atlantic, the only British airline to fly to the country, having recently launched a daily, direct flight to Seoul from Heathrow. It puts the South Korean capital firmly on the city-break map, offering a thrilling mix of skyscrapers, temples, neon-lit shopping streets, easy-reach mountains and fantastic food.
Things to do
It is easy to feel bamboozled by options when you arrive in Seoul. The city is vast, a jigsaw of distinctive neighbourhoods spread over more than 200 square miles. Luckily, the Metro is easy to use and very efficient, and Ubers are cheap, though traffic can be heavy.
Get a feel for the city’s history first by touring one of its five Joseon Dynasty palaces. The 14th-century Gyeongbokgung is the largest, with a traditional twice-daily changing-of-the-guard ceremony, but Changdeokgung is the loveliest, a UNESCO-listed former royal residence with a cherry blossom-filled secret garden. Admission is free if you come wearing traditional Korean dress, as many tourists choose to do. Afterwards, wander the narrow streets of nearby Bukchon Hanok Village, lined with traditional homes with curved tiled roofs, tea houses and craft shops.
If you come seeking trends, and shops, head to Hongdae shopping district packed with department stores, street food stalls and entire shops filled with photo booths and props to pose with. Make a beeline for the flagship Olive Young store, the country’s biggest cosmetics retailer, where there’s a whole wall devoted to sheet masks, testing stations and a vending machine that doles out free skincare samples.
Myeong-dong is even hipper, with cat cafés, independent boutiques, galleries and bars. Book a slot at Colorize to try out the TikTok trend of having your colours analysed to discover which suit you best, or sign up for a K-Pop dance class near Hongik University to rate your chances of making the next BTS video.
Over in Gangnam, there are upmarket stores, a sprawling underground mall, the 8th-century Bongeunsa Temple and a giant golden statue honouring “Gangnam Style”, the famously catchy song about the area.
For a total change of pace, it’s worth taking a day trip to the DMZ, the 160-mile Demilitarized Zone that separates North and South Korea. It’s around an hour from Seoul, through rigorous passport checks, walls of barbed wire and signs warning of possible landmines in the area. Only pre-booked guided tours are allowed, which include a walk along the mile-long Third Infiltration Tunnel, an eerie, narrow underground passage carved into the granite 73m below ground. Discovered in 1978, it was built by North Korea for up to 30,000 soldiers an hour to pass through and potentially launch a surprise attack on the south.
From the adjacent Dora Observatory, it’s even possible to look into North Korea itself, spotting military watchtowers, the skyline of Kaesong city, a solitary tractor working the fields and a huge flag billowing in the wind on one of the world’s tallest flagpoles. More sobering still, in the DMZ’s small museum, it’s possible to sit down with a North Korean defector to learn how they escaped the country and what life was really like there.
Eating and drinking
Need a quick meal in Seoul? Look no further than the humble 7-Eleven stores all over the city. Many of these have huge (and cheap) eat-on-the-spot food options, including fresh kimbap, design-your-own ramen, kimchi-flavoured everything and even bento boxes, plus sitting areas to wolf it down.
Check out chimaek – chicken and beer – shops for crispy Korean fried chicken. There’s a whole street of them in Myeong-dong or for an elevated take on the classic, head to Kyochon Pilbang in Itaewon – if you can find it. Pull on the large paintbrush hanging on the wall close to Itaewon station to gain access to this unmarked speakeasy-style basement restaurant, where chicken is served with sauces you can paint on with the supplied paintbrush.
Korean BBQ has to be tried at least once. In Bongsan in Seogyo-dong, there are built-in barbecues in the middle of tables for diners to grill their own beef brisket, wagyu and pork belly with sides, sauces, yet more kimchi and shots of soju, a vodka-style spirit made from fermented rice. Don’t wear your best clothes though, the smell lingers long after dinner. Afterwards, stroll the busy surrounding neon-lit streets for caricature and portrait shops, karaoke bars and ice-cream parlours, including the popular 32 Parfait, known for its whopping 32cm soft-serve cones.
Where to stay
The design-driven Mondrian Seoul Itaewon is a trendy spot with a buzzy hotel entrance full of locals having coffee, a second-floor lobby inspired by a fairy-tale forest with towering plants and illuminated swings hanging from the ceiling, and an outdoor pool overlooking the city. Standard rooms are small but sleek in shades of grey with dark wooden furniture and statement armchairs. Don’t miss the rooftop bar with its panoramic views of Seoul. Namsan Botanical Garden and the lively Itaewon-dong strip, with its restaurants and clubs, are both within walking distance.
Siobhan Grogan was a guest of Virgin Atlantic and Mondrian Seoul Itaewon. For more information, go to English.visitkorea.or.kr