By Melissa Clark, The New York Times
The first blush of asparagus season never gets old. Every April, seeing those violet-tipped bunches at the farmers’ market sends my pulse zipping and my mind whirling. Dreaming up new ways of preparing them is almost as thrilling as eating them, though clearly not as satiating.
Because asparagus cook so quickly and are delightful at any stage of doneness — crisp-tender, velvety soft and even raw, if very fresh — they take well to a host of techniques.
Lately, roasting has been my go-to. It’s not necessarily easier or faster than any other method, but I love how the oven’s heat intensifies asparagus’ flavors, caramelizing and sweetening the stalks while the tips get crispy. It’s also convenient. Asparagus roasts beautifully at any temperature from 375 degrees to 450 degrees, which means I can throw a pan of oiled, salted spears into the oven along with whatever else I’m making for dinner. Add a drizzle of yogurt or good olive oil, and some chopped herbs or scallions, and you get a nearly effortless side dish with charm and sophistication.
This spring, though, I wanted to focus on some other cooking techniques that would both highlight asparagus’ versatility and coax a wide range of qualities from the leaf-green stalks.
Broiling
I started with broiling, which is roasting-adjacent. But where roasting surrounds the stalks with relatively even and gentle heat, broiling blasts them fiercely and directly, singing them until blackened outside, tender and sweet within.
Broiled asparagus has an intense flavor, so I wanted to match it with a pungent sauce. While the spears were under the broiler, I whisked together a simple miso glaze, flavored with sake, mirin and sesame oil, and brushed it on during the last few minutes of cooking. To make the dish more substantial (and for a soft, mild contrast), I added tofu.
Pan-Searing
For the next recipes, I pulled out my knife and skillet with the idea of cutting the spears into bite-size pieces, then searing them until they would just yield to the tines of a fork.
From there, I took things in two completely different directions.
Looking to maximize crunch, I toasted cashews, sunflower seeds and unsweetened coconut flakes before adding the asparagus. Then I spiked everything with lime juice and chile flakes for acidity and heat. What resulted was a hearty side dish for simple roasted fish or chicken, or a light meal when served over rice or with a fried or soft-cooked egg, the yolk serving as glossy sauce.
Sautéing
For the next recipe, I sautéed the asparagus in butter to mellow its herbal grassiness and bring out its sweetness. Mixed with peas, mint, Parmesan and cream, it was the foundation of a rich pasta dish with primavera vibes, but easier, faster and brighter.
No matter how you end up cooking your asparagus, spring is when you can find it locally and very fresh (as opposed to imported bunches, which can be weeks old by the time they arrive at the supermarket). Look for stalks with tips that are tightly closed around the stems. The stems should be smooth and green, without any browning or shriveling.
Then, just snap or trim off the tough ends, give them a rinse, and they’re ready to go, wherever you choose to take them.
Miso-Chile Asparagus With Tofu
By Melissa Clark
Broiling asparagus gives it a charred exterior but still keeps the vegetables soft and sweet within. Here, the stalks share a pan with cubed tofu, and everything is glazed with a pungent miso sauce spiked with mirin, rice vinegar and a good hit of chile. Served over rice or noodles, it makes a salty, spicy and deeply flavored meal that’s ready in less than half an hour.
Yield: 2 to 3 servings
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Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
1 (14- to 16-ounce) block firm tofu, well drained
1 pound asparagus (about 1 bunch), trimmed
3 tablespoons neutral-flavored oil (such as grapeseed or peanut oil)
Salt
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more for serving
2 tablespoons white or light miso
1 tablespoon sake (or use white wine or vermouth)
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 tablespoon mirin
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
Sliced scallions, for garnish
Preparation
1. Heat the broiler and place an oven rack about 6 inches from the heat source. Line a rimmed sheet pan with foil if you like (for easier cleanup). Cut tofu into 1-inch cubes, then dry with a clean kitchen towel or paper towels to absorb as much moisture as possible.
2. Put asparagus and tofu on the prepared pan and toss gently with 2 tablespoons oil. Spread everything out in one layer and season lightly with salt.
3. Slide pan under the broiler and broil until speckled lightly with brown, 3 to 6 minutes. Flip tofu and asparagus, then continue to broil until asparagus is tender and tofu is deeply browned in spots, 3 to 7 minutes longer, depending on the size of the asparagus and power of your broiler.
4. While the asparagus broils, make the miso-chile sauce. Heat a skillet over medium heat, then add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and heat until it thins out, about 30 seconds. Add garlic and red-pepper flakes to the pan; cook until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Turn off the heat. Whisk in miso, sake, vinegar, mirin and sesame oil.
5. Remove pan from oven, slather miso mixture over the asparagus and tofu, and return to broiler for another 30 seconds to 2 minutes, until the miso mixture bubbles and glazes everything (watch carefully so nothing burns). Transfer asparagus and tofu to a serving platter and garnish with more red-pepper flakes, if you like, and sliced scallions. Serve hot or warm.
Pan-Seared Asparagus With Cashews
By Melissa Clark
In this speedy, springy dish, a crunchy mix of nuts, seeds and coconut flakes gives seared asparagus plenty of texture, while a squeeze of lime and handful of fresh herbs add brightness right at the end. This makes a hearty side dish for simple roasted fish or chicken, or it can be a light meal when served over rice or alongside a fried or soft-cooked egg, the yolk turning into a glossy sauce that coats the stalks.
Yield: 3 to 4 servings
Total time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
1/3 cup roasted unsalted cashews, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup unsweetened coconut flakes
2 tablespoons raw sunflower seeds or pepitas
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon coconut oil (or use a neutral-flavored oil)
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 pound asparagus (about 1 bunch), trimmed and cut into 2- to 3-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce, to taste
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, plus lime wedges for serving
1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes, more to taste
Chopped cilantro and sesame seeds, for serving
Preparation
1. In a large dry skillet over medium-low heat, toast the cashews, coconut flakes and sunflower seeds, stirring, until fragrant, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour mixture into a bowl to cool.
2. Return pan to the heat, and add sesame and coconut oils and garlic. Cook for 30 seconds, then stir in asparagus. Season lightly with salt and black pepper. Cook asparagus until crisp-tender, 3 to 7 minutes depending on how thick they are.
3. Stir in the soy sauce, lime juice, nut mixture and red-pepper flakes. Taste and season with more salt and red pepper, if you like. Transfer asparagus mixture to a serving dish. Top with sesame seeds and cilantro, and serve with lime wedges for squeezing.
Creamy Asparagus Pasta With Peas and Mint
By Melissa Clark
Sautéing asparagus in butter mellows it, bringing out its sweetness. Mixed with peas, mint, Parmesan and cream, it makes the foundation of a rich pasta dish with primavera vibes, but easier, faster and brighter, thanks to some grated lemon zest folded in at the end. If you can’t get good asparagus, feel free to substitute other quick cooking vegetables, like zucchini, corn or mushrooms. This delightful cream sauce is highly adaptable.
Yield: 3 to 4 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
1 teaspoon fine sea salt or table salt, more as needed
1 pound short pasta, such as campanelle
1 pound asparagus (about 1 bunch), trimmed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3/4 cup frozen green peas (no need to thaw)
4 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon red-pepper flakes
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3/4 cup heavy cream
3/4 cup grated Parmesan, more for serving
1 lemon, zested and halved
1/2 cup chopped fresh mint (or use parsley, basil or dill), for serving
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Preparation
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook pasta until al dente according to package directions.
2. As the pasta boils, slice asparagus stems into 1/4-inch-thick pieces; leave asparagus tips whole.
3. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add asparagus, peas, scallions and red-pepper flakes. Cook until vegetables are bright green and just tender (but not soft or mushy), 2 to 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook 1 minute more. Season with the salt and 1/4 teaspoon black pepper; pour mixture into a large serving bowl.
4. To the same skillet, add the heavy cream, 1/2 cup grated Parmesan and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Simmer until reduced and thick, about 2 to 3 minutes. Return vegetables to the skillet and toss with the sauce to reheat.
5. When the pasta is done, reserve 1/2 cup pasta water, then drain well.
6. Immediately put the hot pasta in the same bowl you used for the vegetables and toss with remaining 1/4 cup grated Parmesan, lemon zest and mint. Add vegetable-cream mixture and the juice of half a lemon, and toss well. If the mixture looks thick, add a little pasta water to loosen it; it should be saucy. Taste and season generously with salt, pepper and more lemon juice as needed; it should taste bright and lively. Serve, topping each bowl with more Parmesan, mint and a drizzle of olive oil.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.