A little of this, a little of that, with inspiration from the springtime farmers market: A salsa is more than a red or green sauce drizzled over a taco. Salsas are wonderful mashes of garden herbs, sweet and spicy peppers, aromatics and citrus. Delightfully fresh and usually raw, salsas provide brightness and zing to an assortment of meats, fish, vegetables and grains.
Mellow green garlic and juicy sweet Meyer lemons rule this springtime salsa. They are blitzed together in a chunky sauce with green chiles and leafy herbs. The key to a good salsa is to hit all the flavor components, and this salsa does just that: Sweet and sharp citrus, laced with skulking chile heat, mingles with spring garlic.
Green garlic is available in early spring at the markets. It resembles a thick scallion with the unmistakable pungency of garlic, but without the bite typically found in mature bulbs. The newest stalks have small, baby bulbs, which are tender and edible, along with the green leaves, when the garlic is young. As the garlic matures, the green stalks will toughen like a leek, in which case the stalks should be omitted.
Meyer lemon is another springtime star. Unlike the ubiquitous Eureka, Meyers have an edible rind, and the whole lemon can be added to the salsa. Coarsely chop the lemon and nick away any small seeds. Add the lemon and any juices to the bowl. Meyers are fruity, bright and less puckery than Eureka lemons and add a wonderful citrusy freshness.
This salsa is extremely versatile. It’s a brilliant accompaniment to fish and light meats, as well as roasted and grilled vegetables and potatoes. You can also toss chopped cooked potatoes with a generous amount of the salsa for a green and fresh potato salad. A few tips: If green garlic is not available, substitute 2 to 3 scallions and one garlic clove. Remember to taste the jalapeno and poblano before adding, as they can vary in heat, then adjust the amounts to your taste.
Meyer Lemon Salsa
Makes about 1½ cups
INGREDIENTS
2 green garlics, white and pale green parts and tender green leaves, chopped
1 small Meyer lemon, chopped, seeded
1 small poblano pepper, seeded, chopped
1 small jalapeno pepper, seeded, chopped (optional)
1 cup packed Italian parsley leaves and tender sprigs
1/2 cup packed cilantro leaves and tender sprigs
1/2 cup packed fresh mint leaves
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon Kosher salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
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DIRECTIONS
Combine all the ingredients in a food processor. Process until you have a chunky salsa consistency. Add more oil for a looser consistency, if desired. Taste for seasoning. The salsa can be stored in the refrigerator for up to one day.
Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer.
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