And now, a word on the mellow, quiet side of skiing …
Cross-country skiing promises beauty, solitude and fitness benefits without lift lines, parking lot traffic jams and crowded trails. It’s cheaper than downhill skiing, easier to learn, and the equipment isn’t as cumbersome.
Colorado has many wonderful Nordic centers catering to “skinny skiers” and snowshoers, too. Here are five of the best:
Aspen Snowmass Nordic Trail System: It can be mighty expensive to ski in Aspen, but it’s also possible to ski for free there every day of the season. The 90-kilometer (56-mile) track-set trail system includes free trails in Aspen, Snowmass Village and Basalt. The Aspen Golf Club pro shop becomes the Aspen Cross Country Center in the winter, and is operated by the town’s venerable outdoor gear shop, Ute Mountaineer. Skiers can rent or buy gear there and sign up for lessons. Funding for trail maintenance comes from Pitkin County Open Space & Trails and is managed by the city of Aspen.
Breckenridge Nordic Center: This classic cross-country venue dates back to 1969 and is privately owned, meaning it’s not part of the Vail Resorts empire even though it’s adjacent to the Breckenridge ski area. The center is located at the foot of Peak 8 and has 30 kilometers of trails groomed for Nordic skiing, with another 20 kilometers of single-track snowshoe trails. There are trails suitable for families as well as endurance athletes on terrain that features panoramic views and forested hillsides offering peace and serenity. The lodge has one of the most vibrant après-ski vibes of any Nordic center in the state, with food, drink and merriment. The guy in lederhosen who plays the accordion and an 11-foot Swiss Alpenhorn is the founder and owner, Gene Dayton. A bank of picture windows frames a gorgeous view of Peak 8’s high-alpine slopes and its summit, which towers 3,100 feet above. Daily trail passes cost $35 for ages 13-64, $30 for 65 and older.
Crested Butte Nordic: Like Aspen, cross-country skiing in Crested Butte is provided by a nonprofit, Crested Butte Nordic. There are 55 kilometers of groomed trails with gorgeous scenery in what the nonprofit calls the “Nordic Ski Capital of Colorado.” Check out the West Side trails in late afternoon when the sun angle is low, creating long shadows and bathing nearby peaks in golden light. Day passes are sold at the Nordic Center, 620 Second St. in Crested Butte. The cost is $25 for ages 17-64 and $16 for ages 65-69, with no charge for folks 70 and older. Nearly 10K of its trails are open for the public to ski without charge.
Eldora Nordic Center: If you’ve got the energy, getting in some cross-country skiing after a day (or half-day) on the downhill mountain makes for a sweet way to wrap things up. The Nordic center is located across the parking lot from the downhill slopes. Of course, Eldora’s Nordic system is a great place to spend the whole day kicking and gliding (or skate skiing), too. The Nordic Center has 30 kilometers of trails with another 10 kilometers set aside for snowshoers. Online advance daily trail passes cost $20 on weekdays, $40 on weekends. Trail passes for kids 4 and under are $6. Junior trail passes (ages 5-15), when purchased in advance, are $20 on weekdays, $25 on weekends. Juniors can also get $15 tickets on Wednesdays with advance online purchase.
Snow Mountain Ranch Nordic Center: This cross-country center, on the Granby campus of YMCA of the Rockies, is massive. It has 82.5 kilometers of groomed trails (51 miles) — with 40K labeled pet-friendly — spread across 5,100 acres with gorgeous views of the Indian Peaks on the Continental Divide. It has terrain for all abilities and a Nordic center large enough to accommodate lots of visitors. That’s a good thing, too, because it attracts 25,000 every winter. Trail passes are $29 for adults, $14 for children 6-12, and free for children under 6.
For more: In addition to these five Nordic operations, there are several other wonderful places to experience skiing’s softer, quieter side in Colorado. More information is available through the Colorado Cross Country Ski Association, which represents 15 Nordic ski areas.
The CCCSA sells punch passes good for two visits to each of eight Colorado cross-country areas for $150. That’s less than $10 per visit. Participating areas include the Breckenridge Nordic Center, Crested Butte Nordic, Frisco Nordic, Gold Run Nordic, Keystone Nordic, Snow Mountain Ranch, Tennessee Pass Nordic and Vail Nordic Center.