I’m no stranger to roasting turkeys. I cooked my first Thanksgiving dinner at 21, and in the decades to follow, I’ve tried just about every imaginable technique for cooking that holiday bird. Well, I never deep fried it, but year after year, I’ve done my share of experimenting, from brining to spatchcocking. I’ve roasted it upside down and right side up, some stuffed, others unstuffed. Yes, I have done my share of turkey rubbing, soaking, and injecting.
America’s Test Kitchen has done its share of turkey testing, too. One of its methods that I most enjoy involves a few hours of salt-water soaking followed by building aromatic flavors throughout the bird with a tasty paste. The paste-like mix teams a combination of fresh herbs with lemon zest, minced shallots and garlic, plus a little Dijon mustard and olive oil. Once whirled in the food processor, part of the mixture is rubbed under the skin of the turkey’s breasts, thighs, and drumsticks, an uncomplicated process if you first remove any large cocktail rings and don’t have long, pointy fingernails.
The next step is somewhat surprising, but it adds a lot of flavors to the white meat. Using a sharp paring knife, a smallish slit is cut into each breast, about 1½-inches deep. An expansive pocket is created by sweeping the blade’s tip back and forth. A tablespoon of the paste is added to each pocket. Initially, I was concerned that cutting the skin, even a little, might cause the meat to dry out. But it doesn’t. Overcooking, heaven forbid, is what could dry it out.
Additional paste is divided between the cavity and exterior of the turkey, and I sometimes save a 1/2 teaspoon to add to the gravy.
This herb roast turkey is delicious served with a mashed potato concoction that pairs the spuds with parsnips.
Happy Thanksgiving!
This herbal sage contains parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme, along with shallot, garlic and lemon zest. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)
America’s Test Kitchen Herbed Roast Turkey
Serves 10
INGREDIENTS
Brine:
2 cups table salt
2 gallons cold water
One 12- to 14-pound turkey, rinsed thoroughly with cold water, giblets and neck reserved for gravy (if using), tailpiece removed
Herb Paste:
1¼ cups chopped fresh parsley leaves
4 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage leaves
1½ teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
1 medium shallot, minced (about 3 tablespoons)
2 medium cloves garlic, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
3/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest, from 1 lemon
3/4 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
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DIRECTIONS
For the wet brine, dissolve salt in 2 gallons cold water in large stockpot. Add turkey and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours.
Remove turkey from brine and rinse under cool running water. Pat it dry inside and out with paper towels. Place turkey breast side up on flat wire rack set over rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan and refrigerate, uncovered, 30 minutes.
For the herb paste: Process parsley, thyme, sage, rosemary, shallot, garlic, lemon zest, salt, and pepper in food processor until consistency of coarse paste, about 10 2-second pulses. Add mustard and olive oil; continue to process until mixture forms smooth paste, about ten to twelve 2-second pulses; scrape sides of processor bowl with rubber spatula after 5 pulses. Transfer mixture to small bowl.
For the turkey: Adjust oven rack to lowest position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Line large V-rack with heavy-duty foil and use paring knife or skewer to poke 20 to 30 holes in foil; set V-rack in large roasting pan. Remove turkey from refrigerator and wipe away any water; set turkey breast side up on a dry rimmed baking sheet. Tuck wings behind back and tuck tips of drumsticks into skin at tail to secure.
Using hands, carefully loosen skin from meat of breasts, thighs, and drumsticks. Using spoon, slip 1½ tablespoons paste under breast skin on each side of turkey. Using fingers, distribute paste under skin over breast, thigh and drumstick meat.
Using sharp paring knife, cut 1½-inch vertical slit into thickest part of each breast. Starting from top of incision, swing knife tip down to create a 4- to 5-inch pocket within flesh. Place 1 tablespoon paste in pocket of each breast; using fingers, rub in thin, even layer.
Rub 1 tablespoon paste inside turkey cavity. Rotate turkey breast side down; apply half remaining herb paste to turkey skin; flip turkey breast side up and apply remaining herb paste to skin, pressing and patting to make paste adhere; reapply herb paste that falls onto baking sheet.
To roast turkey: Place turkey breast side down on prepared V-rack in roasting pan. Roast 45 minutes.
Remove roasting pan with turkey from oven (close oven door to retain oven heat). Using clean potholders (or 2 thick wads of paper towels), rotate turkey breast side up. Continue to roast until thickest part of breast registers 165 degrees and thickest part of thigh registers 170 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 50 to 65 minutes longer. Confirm temperature by inserting an instant-read thermometer in both sides of bird. Transfer turkey to carving board; let rest 30 minutes. Carve turkey and serve.
— Courtesy America’s Test Kitchen
This mashed potato recipe from Bon Appétit magazine incorporates parsnips into the dish. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)
Mashed Potatoes and Parsnips
Parsnips add a delightful note to mashed potatoes. Yes, they look like frumpy carrots, the skin’s hue a drab tan or pale yellow, the flesh watered-down beige. They may not be lookers, but they are an irresistible blend of sweet carrot and herbaceous parsley-like flavors. Look for firm parsnips that are about 8- to 10-inches long. Refrigerate dry and unwashed in crisper drawer in a plastic bag up to 3 weeks. Wash before use; trim ends and peel with a swivel-bladed peeler.
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Serves 8
INGREDIENTS
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, divided use
2½ large yellow onions, halved, sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried
6 parsnips, peeled, thickly sliced
4 large russet potatoes, peeled, thickly sliced
1 cup milk, heated
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS
Melt 1½ tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until golden, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Mix in rosemary. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.)
Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Add parsnips and potatoes; boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Return vegetables to pot; mash. Add warm milk and 4½ tablespoons butter; stir until smooth. Coarsely chop onions and stir into mixture, adding all the pan juices. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 6 hours ahead. Cover; chill. Rewarm over medium-high heat, stirring frequently and adding more milk if too dry.)
— Adapted from Bon Appétit magazine
Rick Rodgers’s recipe for turkey gravy uses turkey drippings, flour and either canned chicken broth or homemade turkey broth. (Photo by Cathy Thomas)
Turkey Gravy
My mother made delicious turkey gravy. She used a pureed slurry made of broth and flour, and somehow turned it into a luscious mix. Although the technique worked for her, for me this formula from cookbook author’s Rick Rodgers is foolproof.
Serves 10
INGREDIENTS
Drippings from roast turkey
2 quarts canned chicken broth or homemade turkey broth
Melted butter, as needed
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup bourbon, port, or dry sherry, optional
Salt to taste, if needed
Cook’s notes: To made turkey broth, place a quartered onion, a stalk of celery, a carrot and the turkey neck and giblets in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Cover the mix with either 2 quarts chicken broth or water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to low to maintain a very gentle simmer for 2 hours. Strain.
DIRECTIONS
Remove turkey from roasting pan. Pour the drippings from the pan into a heatproof glass bowl or large measuring cup. Allow to stand 5 minutes. Skim off the clear yellow fat that has risen to the top. Measure 3/4 cup fat; add melted butter if needed to make the right amount.
Measure 8 cups of broth (you may not need it all). Place roasting pan on two stove burners over low heat and add 3/4 cup fat. Whisk in flour, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan and cooking until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 6 cups of broth, adding it gradually, and bourbon, if using. Cook, whisking constantly on medium heat until gravy has thickened and no trace of raw flour taste remains, 5 to 6 minutes. If gravy is too thick, stir in more broth and continue to cook. Taste. Add salt if needed.
— “Thanksgiving 101” by Rick Rodgers
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