Travel: How to thaw out on the Mexican Riviera

Migrating birds fly south for the winter due to biological changes, shifts in food availability and a change in daylight length. Right behind them is a subgroup of mammals that also flocks to warmer climates as autumn ends, only they’re driven less by inherited instinct and more out of a need for fun, sun and perhaps a shot of tequila …  or two … or five … or whatever.

They’re called snowbirds, and like their far-traveling feathered friends, these happy, if not hedonistic, humans head like hummingbirds south of the border for, to use the phrase of Parrotheads, changes in latitudes and changes in attitudes. (Fun fact: While Jimmy Buffet fans are generally migratory, only three species of actual parrots are.) These positive changes — compliments of a combination of climate, culture and cuisine, along with hospitality, desirability and affordability — are what draw snowbirds to the Mexican Riviera on the west coast and Riviera Maya on the eastern shoreline.

Whichever geography floats your boat, cruising is one way to warm up south of the border at this time of year. But let’s face it: Wonderful as Mexico-bound ocean vacations are, the fleeting hours spent in port aren’t enough to get into the ranchera-rocking rhythm of rest and relaxation that only a longer stay can bring. These half-day visits are a tease, not unlike the little sips offered at tequila tastings in tourist-traipsed towns from Cabo to Cancun. A true escape from the cold, which gets into the 40s in December even at Disneyland, requires quality time.

If you’re nodding your fleece-covered head in agreement, then say “hola” to the all-inclusive Mexican resort. If a week or so of thawing out in Mexico sounds like mariachi music to your ears, we have recommendations as strong as 150-proof Sierra Silver Tequila. No diss to the Yucatan Peninsula, but we’re sticking to the Mexican Riviera with this list as its desert climate promises better weather in winter than its eastern counterpart that could have days of wind, clouds and rain. Plus, the Mexican Riviera is the birthplace of tequila, which is so popular with tourists that signs outside some restaurants promote the local liquor as their “soup of the day.”

Puerto Vallarta

Casa Velas is an adults-only boutique resort away from Puerto Vallarta’s party scene. (Photo by David Dickstein)

In fact, let’s start where tequila can only be mass produced according to Mexican laws: the wondrous and welcoming state of Jalisco. Puerto Vallarta, or “PV” as locals and frequent visitors call it, is a happening tourist destination. The once-quaint fishing village is dotted with prime properties, three in separate neighborhoods that get our upturned thumb.

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In bustling Centro (downtown) is the 80-room Villa Premiere (premiereonline.com.mx), a beautiful beachfront boutique resort that blends retro architecture with modern amenities. Guests have the option of selecting the room-only European plan, but going all-inclusive gets you an open bar (including replenished in-room minibar), special theme nights and dining at the property’s three restaurants, the romantic, palapa-roofed La Ceiba included. Steps away is PV’s famous Malecon, a mile-long shoreline promenade that attracts all ages by day, and by night becomes one big fiesta thanks to a lively club scene.

High above the loco-ness of downtown, in the exclusive Conchas Chinas neighborhood, is the five-star Grand Miramar (grandmiramar.com). Getting to this hilltop resort requires a steep drive that’s best left to the professionals. Using the included shuttle service to go between the hotel and the beach or downtown can try one’s patience and motion sickness. Any inconvenience and possible nausea are easily overlooked, however, by the overlooks of Banderas Bay from your suite and the resort’s modish restaurants and bars.

It doesn’t get much better than enjoying a signature tamarind margarita or passion fruit gin martini at Grand Miramar’s chic rooftop lounge, The Gin Joint, while taking in the 180-degree view from the highest point in Puerto Vallarta. A full-service spa and variety of room categories are other plusses.

Within PV’s marina district is Casa Velas (hotelcasavelas.com), an adults-only, 80-suite boutique hotel well away from the party scene, but just minutes from the beach thanks to a short shuttle ride that goes to the Táu Beach Club. Guests also have reciprocity at nearby Velas Vallarta, an all-inclusive oceanfront family resort. Casa Velas’ signature restaurant, Emiliano, is a winner, featuring live music and a sinfully delicious cocktail menu topped by the Blue Peacock (Malibu rum, coconut cream, blue curaçao and pineapple juice) and the Coco-Banana (vodka, orange juice, coconut cream and a frozen banana).

Riviera Nayarit

Balcony views of Banderas Bay are stunning at Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Just over the Ameca River from Puerto Vallarta, in the state of Nayarit, is Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit (vallarta.grandvelas.com). This sister property of Casa Velas is less than a half-hour by car to the north, and as impressive as the resort in PV is, Grand Velas is exceptional. The only AAA five-diamond all-inclusive resort on the Mexican Riviera even has a quartet of AAA four-diamond restaurants, which makes dining away from the property almost silly. And that’s saying a lot because nearby PV has a strong foodie scene.

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Besides local cuisine with flavors and plating as vibrant as Mexico’s colorful culture, guests can savor foods of France, Italy and Asia; the miso-glazed salmon at Sen Lin is as amazing as the miso-marinated black cod at Nobu, which high praise. The kids’ and teens’ clubs are almost too awesome, meaning they could jeopardize family time — not that parents would object to having more adult time in or out of one of the property’s 267 rooms. From the fountain-adorned high-ceiling lobby to the snazzy nighttime live entertainment, Grand Velas is the region’s gold standard of unpretentious luxury.

Sen Lin serves up sumptuous miso-glazed salmon at Grand Velas. (Photo by David Dickstein)

To the west, on the tony north shore of Banderas Bay, is Four Seasons’ foray into the all-inclusive category and the lavish brand’s first adults-only tented resort. Opened two years ago, Naviva (fourseasons.com/naviva), a sister property of the neighboring, family-friendly and newly renovated Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita, is built around 15 luxury tents nestled on 48 forested acres overlooking the Pacific. It’s glamping at its finest with each tent featuring an open-air living room and separate bedroom that has guests going from dry to wet in an instant thanks to a private plunge pool and expansive deck with outdoor shower. Each day is greeted with an unscripted adventure that may involve being taken to the private home studio of a local artist or an adobe sweat lodge for a ritual with origins dating back to the pre-Hispanic indigenous peoples of Mesoamerica.

Los Cabos

A gorgeous sunset comes with the package at all-inclusive Pueblo Bonito Pacifica. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Over-saturated as the Cabo resort market may be, a handful of the all-inclusive variety stands out like a matador’s red cape to an angry bull — or Mother Nature’s El Arco at the tip of Baja California and Sammy Hagar’s Cabo Wabo in a city awash in cantinas.

Adults-only Pueblo Bonito Pacifica is a jewel minutes from downtown Cabo. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Luxury brand Pueblo Bonito (pueblobonito.com) has two spectacular resorts within the upscale residential development of Quivira Los Cabos. Both Pacific-kissed properties are connected by a fleet of shuttle vans and a wristband system that makes reciprocity between the attractive addresses a tropical breeze. Guests have exclusive access to Quivira Golf Club, a sprawling Jack Nicklaus Signature-designed course that’s one of the best-reviewed in Mexico. It’s a beauty and a beast.

The par-3 sixth hole at Quivera was carved out of the Pacific-hugging hillside. (Photo by David Dickstein)

The adults-only Pueblo Bonito Pacífica Golf & Spa Resort is pure bliss. Fronting a pristine stretch of private beach that’s peddler free, the Pacifica property offers tranquility just 10 minutes from the opposite vibe in downtown Cabo San Lucas. Upgrading to a guestroom or suite in The Towers gets a 24-hour butler, use of a state-of-the-art fitness center overlooking the water, and an oceanfront VIP lounge. Family-friendly Pueblo Bonito Sunset Beach rests on a private coastal bluff, and like its 18 and over sister property, offers spacious suites, a range of dining options, a full-service spa and impeccable service.

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Cabo’s Hacienda del Mar is serene, yet family-friendly. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Other recommended all-inclusive resorts in Los Cabos include Villa La Valencia (villalavalencia.com) with a 1,148-foot-long lazy river; Playa Grande Resort & Spa (playagranderesort.solmar.com), an active, family-friendly property that’s a short stroll from the shopping and nightlife of downtown Cabo; and the serene, yet child-friendly Hacienda del Mar (haciendadelmar.com.mx).

Mazatlán

Mazatlán’s El Cid El Moro offers fun in the sun for all ages. (Photo by David Dickstein)

Sporting a cool ‘60s Acapulco-esque attitude and amenities aplenty, El Cid El Moro (elcid.com) is a solid pick in the resort destination’s Golden Zone for couples and families. There’s a European plan option when booking, but going all-inclusive hands guests a set of keys that open a variety of on-site bars and restaurants here and at three sister resorts, plus a slew of water sports and separate clubs for teens and younger ones.

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The onsite spa and offsite golf course are enticing add-ons, but the sweeping views of the Pacific taken in from immaculate and luxurious accommodations come at no extra charge. Dining options include the palm-roofed, beachfront La Concha Restaurant that looks onto picturesque Las Tres Islas. The swim-up La Conchita Bar is the perfect pick for casual food and refreshing drinks best enjoyed while wet. Even better, you’re likely not going to freeze when getting out.

These and other all-inclusive resorts in the Mexican Riviera are open year-round thanks to that glorious tropical climate. But when one feels the need to add another layer of textiles when going out, or the home heating system is being overworked, it’s nice to know that south of the border is a vacation destination where it’s virtually impossible to have a winter of your discontent.

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