Abandon hope, all souls who dare partake of an afternoon tea bereft of clotted cream.
The quintessentially English condiment, a thick and rich cream perfect for scone anointment, is among the criteria that Queen of Afternoon Tea, a food critic whose TikTok reviews of tea houses have skyrocketed in the last few months, deems requisite for a proper afternoon tea.
Queen of Afternoon Tea, a 40-something woman based in Ontario, Canada, who asked to remain anonymous, has helped guide a new generation of budding gastronomes through the world of afternoon tea, a maximalist, tiered dining experience once reserved for Easter Sundays and demure bachelorette parties.
In just over a year, Queen of Afternoon Tea has amassed more than 255,000 followers on TikTok, with some of her videos garnering millions of views. Her most popular review to date about a Burlington, Ontario, tea spot nabbed 8 million views. The seven-minute pointed review, in part, helped her rise in popularity over the last month, with a follower count that has quadrupled in the last 30 days. “It’s pretty overwhelming, to be honest,” she said.
In an era recovering from turgid bro-chef culture, reclaimed wood, the forced-socializing of the dreaded communal table, and fast-casual ubiquitousness, afternoon tea offers a refreshing throwback that Queen of Afternoon Tea have helped a new, younger generation discover.
Who is Queen of Afternoon Tea?
Before becoming TikTok famous, Queen of Afternoon Tea founded an Ontario tea room website and accompanying Instagram and Facebook pages. Her love of tea service, for which she credits her grandmother, who introduced her to the quasi-formal dining ritual, soon took her to places like Las Vegas and Miami, where she and her husband would check out the local tea scenes.
“My husband and I, or whoever I was with, were going for afternoon tea to places outside of Ontario,” she said. “I don’t have anywhere to share this information, because I didn’t want to inundate my Ontario followers with places in Florida, Las Vegas or Ohio.” A little over a year ago, she started posting her reviews on TikTok, using one of the social media platform’s voice filters to not only help conceal her voice but also create a persona.
“I was trying to decide which filter fit best, and then I settled on the granny one, and have stuck with it,” she explained. “Originally it was really just about me not liking my voice, but then the filter morphed into a personality for me, I guess.”
Since finding fame on TikTok, Queen and her informed opinions have helped a new generation uncover the joys of afternoon tea, teach American audiences about clotted cream (also known as Devonshire cream) and stoke the flames of online discourse.
Tea sandwiches and scones are served with fresh fruit at the Tea House on Los Rios in San Juan Capistrano. (Photo by Jody Collins/SCNG)
What’s the literal tea?
Afternoon tea, as opposed to high tea, is the British-born tradition of partaking in freshly brewed tea in the afternoon, traditionally between 3 and 4 p.m., with light fare consisting of, but not limited to, small sandwiches, scones with the aforementioned cream and jam, cakes, and pastries, all of which arrive to the table stacked on a three-tiered serving platter. Sandwiches (finger-sized, preferably) on the bottom, scones in the middle and sweets on top.
High tea, despite its lofty title, has its origins in the working class, who’d have either a mug or pot of tea with heartier fare, like meat pies, fish or eggs. “Its origins stem from when workers either came in from the field or the servants downstairs, like the ones in ‘Downton Abbey,’ had finished serving the people upstairs, they would have high tea, which would be more meaty and bready, kind of like a supper meal for them,” she explained.
High tea gets its name from the tables on which it was often served — i.e., high tables, like dining tables or dining counters. The Queen of Afternoon Tea continued, “High tea was eaten at a dining room table with higher chairs, as opposed to afternoon tea, which was usually in a salon or a drawing room at the front of the house.”
The ideal afternoon tea
What distinguishes a good afternoon tea from a mediocre one? For starters, the venue should be unique. After all, a brief reprieve from daily toil on this mortal coil is what, in part, makes afternoon tea ideal culinary escapism.
“A venue should be unique in some way, if possible,” she said. “I’m kind of a garden-tea girly where there’s lots of bright or natural light, flowers and gardening type things.” She also gives high marks to high-end hotels that hold afternoon teas. She adds, “Of course, not every location is going to score high marks on having an amazing location, and therefore they need to make it up for the food.”
The food portion of afternoon tea should have three tiers represented, with the first tier reserved for savory fare.
“You have savories represented by way of finger sandwiches or little bites that you eat with your fingers, like hors d’oeuvres, quiches, mini quiches, puff pastries,” she said. “I like to be diverse…fresh and tasty where there are multiple flavors and textures. Maybe that’s a bit different than the origins in England, where it’s mainly just finger sandwiches. I kind of deviate a little bit from that.”
Cucumber with dill cream cheese on milk bread, creamy egg salad with chives and paprika in a savory cone, mozzarella with vine tomatoes and pesto in a tart shell and smoked salmon and dill cream cheese on a pretzel croissant are part of the daytime traditional Afternoon Tea service in the Bow Room at the Hello Kitty Grand Cafe at the Irvine Spectrum in Irvine, CA, on Thursday, Sep 13, 2018. (Photo by Jeff Gritchen, Orange County Register/SCNG)
The second tier should consist of scones, which Queen of Afternoon Tea considers imperative. “Everybody needs a scone, one or two scones that need to be served with proper clotted cream.”
Clotted cream, for the uninitiated, is a slowly thickened cream made with full-fat cow’s milk that is cooked using steam or a water bath and then cooled slowly to achieve its texture (think softened cream cheese). During the cooling process, the cream content floats to the surface and forms “clots,” hence the name. The finished product should taste neither tangy nor sweet.
“It doesn’t take like whipping cream, cream cheese, butter, mascarpone or cottage cheese. “It truly has its own distinct flavor, which makes it hard to describe,” she said in her three-part series about clotted cream.
ALSO SEE: The best things we ate at Southern California restaurants this October
While one hopes afternoon tea rooms serve clotted cream, many of them, according to Queen, get away with faux versions in lieu of the real deal.
“The problem is that most people don’t know what clotted cream is, and so a lot of tea rooms pass off some kind of house-made mixture that they concocted in their kitchen as clotted cream,” she said. “And I can usually tell the difference, because I understand the difference, but I understand that a lot of people don’t, so it’s unfortunate that tea rooms are able to serve whatever concoction they’ve created.”
The Ritz-Carlton in Dana Point features holiday-themed teas, like its recent “Té de los Muertos” afternoon tea. (Photo by Brock Keeling / SCNG)
Above all, she continues, afternoon tea requires scones. “Scones and scone accompaniments are what make afternoon tea ‘afternoon tea.’ Otherwise you’re just having funeral sandwiches and a plate of Christmas cookies.”
And the final tier of the meal is usually reserved for mini cakes, pastries and jellies. “Similar to the sandwiches, I like there to be diversity in colors and flavors and shapes and textures. I like chocolate, so I like to find a chocolate item, but there should also be a fruit item, and there should be something creamy and something with a little bit of crispness or texture to it.”
Related Articles
Electronic rockers LCD Soundsystem are now in the local taco business, at least for a limited time
Veterans Day 2024: Dining freebies and discounts for military
Where voters can find dining deals on Election Day, Nov. 5
Hello Kitty and Friends Cafe celebrates Hello Kitty’s 50th Anniversary with limited-time menu items
The best things we ate at Southern California restaurants this October
While it’s easy to get caught up in the maximalist offerings at any given afternoon, titular tea is, of course, a key ingredient. “Having quality loose leaf tea is very important for afternoon tea, with a number of options for people that like to try different things,” said Queen of Afternoon Tea who usually opts for an Earl Grey.
While most spots get the tea part right, others flail at it. “There’s a tea room that I went to in Las Vegas that completely botched the whole tea business,” she said. “That should really be the easiest part for a business is steeping tea properly.”
Teas should come in a wide range, from black, green and herbal, steeped and ready to sip either before or during food service. Descriptions of each tea are also a nice touch to better educated guests.
Queen of Afternoon Tea also gives high marks for fresh bread (many places seem to defrost and warm up packed rolls), thoughtful and informed service, and tranquil yet stimulating environs.
The fickle finger of fame
Her seemingly overnight ascent in the food realm, making her the Keith Lee of afternoon tea, has had some minor drawbacks. For now, she remains anonymous but understands that in today’s digital age, where, thanks to social media’s inescapable presence, anonymity has turned into a precious resource that few can maintain, she might show her face at some point. And a recent review about a tea room cupcakes resulted in a minor dust-up from the owner, but her fans, who eat up her honest reviews, had their queen’s back.
As with any ethical food critic, Queen of Afternoon Tea pays for her own meals (for now it’s a hobby; she maintains a full-time job outside the tea-averse), keeps her reviews conscientious and devoid of favoritism, and shows a deep respect for and understanding of the sumptuous dining ritual.
Her bucket list includes the St. James Tea Room in Albuquerque, New Mexico. “I’ve been following them online forever, and it’s very thematic,” she noted.
Enjoy the unknown
A highlight of afternoon tea is its tasting-menu aspect. Outside of allergy issues, most afternoon tea rooms have changing menus, which, she explained, is part of the fun.
“The great thing about afternoon tea is that, for me, it’s a surprise. You don’t know how it’s going to be presented. You don’t know exactly what kind of food you’re going to get in terms of flavors and how they’re going to put it all together – and I like that mystery.”
Should you want to lift your pinky at afternoon tea, Southern California has host of choice spots in which to sip:
Los Angeles County
Callisto Tea House in Pasadena has weekend tea service featuring savory vegan toasts. Traditional Chinese tea service where tea is brewed in small clay pots is also available. 1359 N. Altadena Drive, Pasadena; 626-345-5615.
Enchanted Rose Tea Parlour in San Dimas features tiered treats (e.g., mini cupcakes) and steeped tea inside a charming, pink setting. Open Wednesday through Saturday. The tea menu offers black, green and herbal varieties. 120 W. Bonita Ave., Suite G, San Dimas. 909-394-4588.
The London West Hollywood, which offers weekend afternoon tea, works with U.K.-based Henrietta Lovell, founder of the Rare Tea Company. $84 per person, $42 for guests under 12. 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood; 844-489-9660.
Rose & Blanc Tea Room in Koreatown offers an afternoon tea inside its soft pink room, with staples like cucumber and dill sandwiches, macaroons and scones. Service begins at $29 per person. 301 Western Ave., #202, Los Angeles. 213-330-6787.
Rosetree Cottage Tea Room in Pasadena has a tea service that comes with a glass of sparkling elderflower and looseleaf English Village Tea. Savories include beef Wellington, toad-in-the-hole and Welsh rarebit. Afternoon tea served on the weekends only. 801 S Pasadena Ave, Pasadena. 626-793 3337
Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills offers a top-drawer experience starting at $110 per person. In addition to a luxe afternoon tea, highlights here include a live harpist providing musical accompaniment in the hotel’s lobby. 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills.
The Culver Hotel‘s weekend afternoon tea, which takes place inside its restaurant, Lillie’s, features pastries, scones, sandwiches and more. 9400 Culver Blvd., Culver City. 310-558-9400.
Olivia’s Dollhouse Tea Room in Lomita provides a perfect place for kids and birthday parties. The fairytale-like setting specializes in private dress-up tea parties for children and “adults who are a child at heart.” 2051 Palos Verdes Drive North, Lomita. 310-257-1199.
Orange County
Hello Kitty Grand Cafe at the Irvine Spectrum offers a contemporary, whimsical take on the tea tradition. 860 Irvine Center Drive, Irvine.
Knife Pleat, one of Orange County’s three Michelin-starred restaurants, in Costa Mesa has an afternoon tea on Saturday for $115 per guest. An ideal oasis in between rounds of shopping at South Coast Plaza. 3333 Bristol St., Ste. 3001, Costa Mesa. 714-266-3388.
McKenna’s Tea Cottage in Seal Beach is a dedicated tea house with lacework tablecloths, delicate porcelain and English brews. 237 Main St., Seal Beach. 562-431-0200.
Raya at the Ritz Carlton in Dana Point has regular afternoon tea service, including themed teas for Christmas, Dia De Los Muertos, Mother’s Day and other holidays. 1 Ritz Carlton Drive, Dana Point. 949-240-2000.
Spring Tea Garden in Fullerton, located in the Spring Field Banquet Center, is a choice spot for parties and events. 501 N. Harbor Blvd., Fullerton. 714-447-0579.
Tea House on Los Rios in San Juan Capistrano, recently featured on this season’s “Real Housewives of Orange County,” offers an idyllic setting in the historic Los Rios District near the train tracks. Bonus points for its garden setting and exceedingly darling decor. 31731 Los Rios St., San Juan Capistrano. 949-443-3914.
Pamela’s Tea Room in Huntington Beach can serve afternoon tea for two or up to 32. Well-behaved children are always welcome here. 7561 Center Ave, Huntington Beach. 714-897-9442.
Riverside County
British Tea House in Riverside, which also doubles as a grocer of British-imported goods, has afternoon tea service that goes all in with a United Kingdom theme. Ideal for parties. 3847 Pierce St., Riverside. 951-651-8720.
Corbeaux Wine & Tea Room in Temecula offers an afternoon tea for $59 per guest. Highlights include carrot tea cake, hazelnut praline cream puff, salted scones and more accompanied by a large pot of tea of your choice. 41923 Second St, Temecula. 951-240-7134.
The Empressa in Temecula features elegant, floral decor, fine porcelain dishware and attentive service. This place also offers etiquette classes for those who want to brush up their table manners. 27715 Jefferson Ave., Temecula. 951-285-5860.
The Mission Inn Hotel in Riverside offers an afternoon tea set on its elegant Spanish-style patio. Prices range from $32 to $42 per guest. 3649 Mission Inn Ave., Riverside. 951-784-0300.
San Bernardino County
Coterie Tea and Eatery in Upland features service with delicate porcelain dishware, housemade finger sandwiches and even a photo booth to capture the merriment. 155 C St., Unit A, Upland. 909-701-8158.
Martha Green’s in Redlands serves tea Monday through Friday from 1 p.m. until 3 p.m. for parties of two or more, and weekends for parties of 20 or more from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. The menu is all scratch-made. 107 E. Citrus Ave., Redlands. 909-792-5400.
The Olde Magnolia Tea Room in Upland offers afternoon teas inside its historic early 1900s classical revival brick building. Menu highlights include housemade scones, creams, curd and sandwiches. Holiday tea also available. 201 N. 1st Ave., Upland. 909-296-5609.