It is said that cooking with mushrooms was first mentioned in a 13th-century French cookbook. As late as the 19th century, writer and gastronome Alexandre Dumas said, “I confess that nothing frightens me more than the appearance of mushrooms on the table, especially in a small provincial town.”
I’ve never hunted wild mushrooms, preferring to get them fresh at our small-town farmers’ market. They are delicious when cooked properly. This recipe is simple to make, beautiful when served, and, of course, delicious. The savory combination of porcini and cremini mushrooms is unique and superb when paired with brandy and Gruyere cheese!
Rustic Mushroom Tart
INGREDIENTS
Crust:
1 cup all-purpose flour
¼ cup whole-wheat flour
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup chilled unsalted butter (cut into pieces)
2 tablespoons ice water
Filling:
1 cup boiling water
1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms
¼ cup unsalted butter
10 ounces fresh cremini mushrooms (cleaned and sliced)
¼ cup shallots (mined)
2 tablespoons brandy
3 teaspoons dried Italian herbs
1 cup Gruyère cheese (grated)
¾ cup half and half
2 egg yolks
1 whole egg
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
2. Blend flour and salt in the processor. Cut in butter using on/off turns until the mixture resembles a coarse meal. Add enough water to blend the dough. Gather dough into a ball. Wrap in plastic and chill for about 30 minutes.
3. Roll out dough on a floured surface to a 12-inch round. Transfer to a 9-inch-diameter tart pan. I use a pan with a removable bottom to make serving easier—trim edges, leaving a ½-inch overhang. Fold the overhang in to form double-thick sides. Press tart edges to raise the dough 1/8 inch above the pan. Chill while preparing the filling.
4. Bring one cup of water to a boil in a saucepan. Add porcini; remove from heat and let stand for 30 minutes. Drain porcini, cut off, and discard any hard bits. Coarsely chop porcini and set aside.
5. Melt butter in a heavy, large skillet over medium heat. Season porcini and cremini mushrooms with salt and sauté until brown, about 10 minutes. Add shallots and sauté for an additional two minutes. Add brandy and turn the heat on high. Boil until almost all the liquid is absorbed. Turn off the heat and mix in the herbs. Set aside uncovered.
6. Prick the crust with the tines of a fork and bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Maintain the oven temperature (that is, don’t turn it off). Sprinkle ½ cup of cheese on the prebaked crust. Cover with mushrooms. Whisk half-and-half, yolks, and the whole egg in a mixing bowl. Pour over the mushrooms. Top with the remaining cheese.
7. Bake until the filling is set and the top is golden, about 30 minutes. Let the tart cool on a rack for 15 minutes before serving.
Randy Graham is a private chef and author whose cookbooks include “The Ojai Valley Cookbook,” “The Ojai Valley Vegetarian” and the “The Ojai Valley Vegan.” He has been a vegetarian since 1975 and enjoys cooking for friends and family using ingredients from backyard vegetable and herb gardens.