Set in the heart of Aldeburgh, The Suffolk, run by George Pell of former Soho institution L’Escargot, is billed as a restaurant with rooms. It definitely feels more like staying at an old friend’s house than a hotel. Step through the historic arched doorway and you’re greeted with a warm welcome. There is a cosy sitting room and a bar, leading to the 60-cover restaurant, and beyond to a private dining room that seats 24, plus there’s a little roof terrace overlooking the sea. Dogs are welcome and there’s a comfortable, relaxed vibe throughout.
Why stay here?
The Suffolk is in the centre of Aldeburgh’s colourful high street, a stone’s throw from the sea. There are just six pared-back, stylish bedrooms. Our top-floor room had a comfortable super-king bed and simple antique furniture. The bathroom was compact but luxurious, with a marble vanity and a rainfall shower. There are refreshingly few mod-cons – no TV, kettle or mini-bar, just a Roberts digital radio.
There’s a shared “pantry” on the first floor, and guests can help themselves to tea and coffee, or a delicious pre-mixed cocktail made with local Fishers gin, and a selection of charcuterie, cheese and chutneys. It’s all free of charge, and really adds to the homely feeling.
Eating and drinking
We strolled to The White Hart, a popular pub, packed with locals and an array of dogs hogging the open fire, for a quick drink before our truly sensational dinner at The Suffolk. Like the bedrooms, the dining room is pared back, with parquet floors, comfortable banquets and panelled walls. The scallop shell wall lights and fireguard give a nod to Aldeburgh’s famous landmark – Maggi Hambling’s Shell sculpture on the shingle beach. The seasonal menu is proud to list the provenance of the ingredients, from a range of celebrated local suppliers – there’s no worry about food miles here, the furthest was from Lowestoft, just 23 miles away.
If you’re partial to oysters or snails, you’re in luck – kick off the meal with half a dozen or a dozen of each. We started with juicy hand-dived scallops in a rich miso butter, and dressed crab with avocado and pickled cucumber, which was refreshingly light. We then enjoyed curried monkfish with shallot and mouth-watering sirloin steak with Béarnaise sauce, salad and chips, but it was the generous side dish of chargrilled hispi cabbage that stole the show – a whole charred cabbage with a creamy parmesan and anchovy dressing. We barely had room for pudding after such a feast, but we shared a clever take on apple crumble hidden in a choux bun, from brilliant new chef, Luke Truelove. It was incredible, and we wolfed it down with a glass of sweet sauternes.
The wine list is well thought out, diverse and reasonably priced, with bottles from £26. It was such a memorable dinner topped off by the impeccable service. Breakfast didn’t disappoint either. We were tempted by “the full Suffolk” with black pudding and rösti potato, but in the end went for granola and yoghurt, followed by poached eggs with local bacon.
Things to do
There’s plenty to do in and around Aldeburgh. Have a mooch around the high street, which has lots of boutiques and independent shops, including a brilliant bookshop, a wine shop with very knowledgeable staff and a smattering of art galleries. Walk along the coast to charming Thorpeness, a holiday village designed in 1910 by Stuart Ogilvie, and take a rowboat out on the pretty Meare.
Nearby are the Anglo-Saxon burial sites at Sutton Hoo, featured in “The Dig“ with Ralph Fiennes; the 12th-century Orford Castle; and Snape Maltings, which has shops, galleries and eateries, as well as the Benjamin Britten concert hall.
Aldeburgh has lots of good restaurants: The Lighthouse for a formal dinner, Aldeburgh Market, a cosy little brasserie serving delicious crab linguine, and Regatta, which is more family friendly. Stock up on local fish at the seafood huts on the shore, which also sell fabulous smoked fish, perfect for a picnic lunch.
There are plenty of great walks, including along the North Warren nature reserve, where you follow the tree-lined boardwalk to a peaceful hide, and can watch the sun set over the marshes and spot bitterns, marsh harriers and even nightingales.
The verdict
If you’re looking to feel spoilt on a relaxing break, you can’t go wrong with a stay at The Suffolk, a fabulous restaurant with simple, stylish rooms. It’s the perfect place to discover the beautiful Suffolk coast and all it has to offer.
Xandie was a guest at The Suffolk, where a double room B&B starts at £180; the-suffolk.co.uk