Just as St Ives in Cornwall is known as the ‘art Mecca of the South West’, Saint Paul de Vence is considered the Cote d’Azur’s ‘Terre de Creation’ – or creative stronghold – thanks to the role it played as a hub for some of the most renowned artists of the early to mid-20th century, from Marc Chagall to Henri Matisse.
With stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea, the village is characterised by its ancient medieval ramparts and charming cobbled streets, still home to a profusion of private galleries, antique shops and lively studios occupied by local painters and sculptors.
Since the 1950s, it has also served as a favourite holiday stop-off for a discerning VIP crowd travelling through the Riviera. Iconic visitors who helped to establish the glamorous allure of this little hilltop idyll include Greta Garbo, Orson Wells and Marlene Dietrich. Indeed, stars such as Muhammad Ali, Yves Montand and Lino Ventura have all played a round of boules in the main square outside the Café de la Place.
The town is surrounded by a 16th-century fortified wall and overlooks the coastline from Cagnes-sur-Mer to Antibes (Image credit: Thiebaut Agence Thuria courtesy of Saint-Paul de Vence Tourist Information Office)
Culture in the air
Jean-Paul Sartre and D.H. Lawrence fell in love with the sounds, sights and pine-filled smells of Saint Paul de Vence. James Baldwin lived in a villa here from 1970 until his death in 1987. Even Winston Churchill, who developed a flair for painting in the South of France, fell for the charms of this fairytale hamlet: it is widely believed that a canvas depicting a street corner with a fountain was painted by the statesman here in the mid-1940s.
However, it is Franco-Russian artist Chagall whose artistic legacy is most intertwined with the picturesque destination. In 1966 he set up home in the village in a maison-atelier known as La Colline where he spent the next three decades producing some of his most important works. These include his large mosaic Les Amoureux now housed at the Fondation Maeght, a remarkable museum set on a hill overlooking the village that boasts one of the most important collections of European modern art in the world.
Equally unmissable is La Colombe d’Or, the legendary Saint Paul de Vence restaurant and guest house that doubles as an exclusive gallery. Located at the entrance to the village, it has been a hot spot for artists, intellectuals and glamorous celebrities since the 1930s as evidenced by the many photographs and priceless artworks that adorn the walls of this cavernous auberge, many bequeathed to the owners in exchange for food and board. Spot signatures by Pablo Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Matisse and Fernand Léger. Most recently, the hotel acquired a large ceramic by Irish artist Sean Scully, now on display next to the hotel’s outdoor pool.
Outside view of the famous La Colombe d’Or restaurant, a celebrity hotspot crammed full of rare art works (Image credit: Elizabeth Rossolin courtesy of the Saint-Paul de Vence Tourist Information Office)
Work your way up
Opened in 2021, the little-known Fondation CAB at the very bottom of the hill is a minimalist gallery housed in a striking 1950s-era building. Dedicated to quieter forms of abstraction and reductivist principles in art, architecture and product design, it runs interesting temporary exhibitions alongside a small but impactful permanent collection of modern and conceptual works by international names such as Le Corbusier, César, Donald Judd and Frank Stella.
Its sleek, sedate facade belies some wonderful surprises, including a restaurant with furniture by Charlotte Perriand and a bijou sculpture garden, which includes a monumental limestone piece by land artist Richard Long. Best of all, guests can stay the night in a 1944 demountable house by Jean Prouvé, or book one of four luxury guest rooms in the main building.
The garden entrance view of Fondation Maeght sets the tempo with its whimsical sculptures by the likes of Joan Miró (Image credit: Photo Olivier Amsellem Courtesy of Fondation Maeght)
The unmissable Fondation Maeght
Part wacky stonework chateau, part minimalist glasshouse, the Fondation Maeght is a stunning hillside tribute to avant-garde architecture and expression. The 1964 building was commissioned by power couple gallerists Marguerite and Aimé Maeght, who moved in intellectual circles and got their friends to pitch in with the building work: mosaics are by George Braque and Chagall, monumental garden sculptures are by Joan Miró, while bronze fittings and furniture are by Diego Giacometti. In fact, you can enjoy his tables and chairs in the museum’s newly opened garden café.
Aside from this, the rotating permanent collection currently counts over 13,000 works of art from the early 20th century to contemporary times. The Fondation recently celebrated its 60th anniversary with the unveiling of four new galleries built below the existing courtyards, in a style that seamlessly synchs with José Luis Sert’s original purist architecture. The big birthday show for summer 2024 explored the friendship between Pierre Bonnard and Matisse. Summer 2025 will be dedicated to visionary British sculptor Barbara Hepworth, while summer 2026 will welcome the bright canvases of American modernist Ellsworth Kelly.
Discover a variety of modern and contemporary galleries nestled within Saint Paul’s winding streets (Image credit: ©Thiebaut Agence Thuria courtesy of Saint-Paul de Vence Tourist Information Office)
An art stroll
Follow the path along the foot of the ramparts and learn all about the town’s historic fortifications built in the 16th century by Francis I, King of France, a great admirer of Italian art and particularly Leonardo da Vinci, whom he supported financially. Da Vinci famously made the king an automaton in the shape of a lion that reared on its hind legs and roared!
The path leads to Saint Paul de Vence’s dinky cemetery, the final resting place of the Maeghts, Chagall, and French actor Georges Géret. Then it’s onwards to the Espace André Verdet, a small exhibition space dedicated to the eponymous poet and art writer who was one of Picasso’s closest friends.
At Gallery AMGM, you can pick up an original Chagall sketch for €48,000 or a more reasonably priced Hervé Léger cushion for €99. Contemporary galleries can be quite the spectacle with lots of daring works on show, some accomplished, others more questionable, which is all part of the fun.
Where to stay
A view of the ultra luxe Chateau Saint-Martin hotel (Image credit: Chateau Saint-Martin)
Unless you’re a VIP, forget trying to book a room at La Colombe d’Or during the summer months. Autumn may be more fruitful since the 13-room/12-suite auberge is open until the end of October and for the Christmas period. Dinner or lunch is a better option for glamorous people watching, but be sure to plan ahead since table spots are scarce all year round.
For ultra luxury, the Château Saint-Martin is a heavenly retreat recently nominated for a number of awards, including France’s Best Hotel Spa 2024. It has various suites and six Provençal-style villas to choose from and boasts one of the region’s most enticing swimming pools with breathtaking views of the Med.
More affordable is the charming 4-star, 17-room Hôtel Les Vergers built in a plush Italianate style where double rooms start from around €220 in July and August excluding breakfast.
The pool at luxury 5-star hotel and spa Chateau Saint Martin in Saint Paul de Vence (Image credit: Courtesy of the Chateau Saint Martin Oetker Collection Hotels)