The world has few such serene places as Japan’s traditional gardens. Each is a “meticulously crafted universe”, said Danielle Demetriou in The Telegraph – a “near-sacred” space that invites you to savour the “stillness” of things. And of the many to be found across the country’s main island, Honshu, three in particular stand out – the Nihon Sanmeien, or Three Great Gardens of Japan.
They are centuries old – “the stuff of Japanese landscape legends” – and each lies in a different prefecture, three or four hours apart by train. As overtourism increasingly plagues Japan (last year brought a record 34 million visitors), they could form the basis of an alternative itinerary – a journey into “the Japan of dreams”, far from the tourist crowds.
Head first for the “achingly scenic” Korakuen, which sits beside the striking black castle in Okayama, a culture-rich city overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. Like the other gardens, Korakuen was commissioned by a local feudal lord, to offer pleasures including tea ceremonies, poetry gatherings and cherry-blossom appreciation. As in the other gardens, its winding paths flow around ponds to reveal a series of “carefully choreographed” views. Completed in 1700, it changes exquisitely with the seasons, from the camellias of winter to early-spring daffodils, early-summer irises and autumn’s “flame-toned” momiji maple leaves.
Next comes Kenrokuen in Kanazawa, one of Japan’s most picturesque historic cities, known for its geisha heritage and rich craft traditions. Dating back to the 17th century, the garden offers a series of “iconic” views, and also has a wonderful teahouse- style restaurant with modern interiors by Kengo Kuma, perfect for a post-stroll treat.
Finally, there is Kairakuen in Mito city, north of Tokyo, a mid-19th century garden with 3,000 blossoming plum trees in 100 different varieties, which burst into “a symphony of pinks and whites” from late February to March.