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Weeknight Dishes: No plates allowed

By Margaux Laskey, The New York Times

I am truly happy to be in this little corner of the internet with you, but I cannot tell a lie — I’m tired. Like, writing-this-from-my-bed-in-the-middle-of-the-day tired.

Anyone else? This back-to-school business has me completely wiped out and ready for a vacation, and we’re barely two weeks in. (Shoutout to those of you who started this marathon of chaos back in August.) The kid wrangling, the lunch packing, the commuting, the shuttling — the endless planning (or, as I like to call it, the “logistic-ing”) of life, even if you don’t have kids, is … a lot.

And so, when it comes to dinner, give me easy, cozy meals that I can eat out of a bowl with a spoon like a big, overtired baby. No knives, because who has the strength? And no forks. They’re too pointy and aggressive and unforgiving, and I get enough of that from my tween.

But here’s something fun (and free)! If you’re in New York on Oct. 7, please swing by the Times Center for a special event celebrating our new NYT Cooking cookbook, “Easy Weeknight Dinners.” Three of my favorite people — Emily Weinstein, Melissa Clark and Eric Kim — will chat about home cooking, their go-to meals and tips for making simple yet delicious food. It won’t cost you a thing, but you do need to register for tickets.

1. Tortellini Soup

Store-bought cheese tortellini make this easy vegetarian soup a breeze to put together at home. The stuffed pasta cooks in minutes and floats in a creamy, tomato-y broth that’s loaded with vegetables. A splash of vinegar enhances the tomato flavor and provides a bit more acidity, and chopped herbs, added at the end, offer some freshness. This soup works well with substitutions like swapping kale or other hearty greens for the spinach, for instance, so feel free to use whatever produce you have on hand. Whatever you do, don’t skimp on the grated Parmesan at the table.

By Lidey Heuck

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 55 minutes

Ingredients

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, chopped (1 1/2 cups)
1 large carrot, diced (1 cup)
2 celery ribs, diced (1 cup)
4 large garlic cloves, minced (2 tablespoons)
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1 teaspoon dried oregano
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more to taste
Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) and black pepper
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 (14-ounce) can diced tomatoes
4 cups (1 quart) vegetable broth
1 (8- to 9-ounce) package refrigerated or frozen cheese tortellini
1/4 cup heavy cream
4 cups baby spinach (about 3 ounces)
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
Chopped fresh basil or parsley, for serving
Grated Parmesan, for serving

Preparation

1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender-crisp, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic, rosemary, oregano, crushed red pepper, 1 teaspoon salt (or 1 1/2 teaspoons if you’re using low-sodium broth) and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper; cook until the garlic is fragrant, 1 minute.

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2. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until it begins to form brown bits on the bottom of the pot, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the diced tomatoes (and their juices) and broth, scraping up the bits on the bottom of the pan, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Lower the heat and simmer, partially covered, until the vegetables are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Add the tortellini, return to a simmer, and cook until pasta is tender, 2 to 3 minutes. (If using frozen, it might take an extra minute.) Add the heavy cream and spinach and cook for 1 minute, stirring often until the spinach is wilted. Off the heat, add the vinegar. Season with more salt and pepper, if needed.

4. Serve hot, topped with basil, Parmesan, and more black or crushed red pepper, if desired. Soup will keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator or 3 months in the freezer (see Tip below). The tortellini will continue to absorb liquid as the soup sits, so you may need to add a splash of broth when reheating.

Tips

To freeze soup, cool to room temperature in the pot, then transfer to airtight containers. Thaw overnight in the fridge, or run the container under hot tap water until the soup releases. Reheat in a pot on the stove, partially covered, until the soup comes to a simmer, adding more water or broth to thin if necessary.

2. Corn and Cod Green Curry

Corn and cod green curry. Coconut milk lends richness, while lime adds brightness to this Thai-inspired curry from Ali Slagle. Food styled by Spencer Richards. (Rachel Vanni, The New York Times)

In this light, Thai-inspired curry, a trio of sweet ingredients — corn, coconut milk and fish — pair with the fruity and fragrant aromatics of green curry paste, which includes green chiles, lemon grass and galangal. Finishing with lime, basil and thinly sliced bok choy further brightens each bite. (The bok choy is cooked only a bit so that its crunchy stems and silky greens provide contrasting textures.) Instead of fresh corn, you can substitute 5 cups of frozen and unthawed corn kernels. Serve the curry on its own or with rice or rice noodles.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients

5 ears of corn (or 5 cups frozen corn kernels)
1 (2-inch) piece of ginger (no need to peel)
4 ounces (1/3 cup) green curry paste
2 tablespoons coconut oil or neutral oil such as grapeseed
1 (14-ounce) can full-fat coconut milk
1 tablespoon fish sauce, plus more as needed
1 1/2 pounds cod, cut into 1 1/2-inch pieces
3 baby bok choy, thinly sliced
Juice from 1 lime (2 tablespoons)
Basil or cilantro leaves, for serving
Thinly sliced Thai bird or serrano chile, for serving (optional)

Preparation

1. Cut the corn kernels off the cobs and transfer to a bowl. Use the blunt edge of the knife to scrape any corn milk off the cobs into the bowl.

2. Into a large pot, finely grate the ginger. Add the curry paste and oil and set over medium. Stir until fragrant, darkened and sticking to the pot, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the coconut milk, then fill the can halfway up with water and add to the pot (about 1 cup water). Scrape the stuck-on bits from the bottom of the pot. Stir in the corn and fish sauce. Simmer until flavorful and slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Add the fish and simmer until cooked through and flaky, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn off the heat and stir in the bok choy and lime juice. (The bok choy will wilt off the heat.) Season to taste with fish sauce. Serve topped with the herbs and chiles as you like.

3. Spiced Chicken and Rice With Cardamom and Cinnamon

Spiced chicken and rice with cardamom and cinnamon. Serve bowlfuls with a dollop of labneh or yogurt for a cool and creamy contrast. Food styled by Maggie Ruggiero. (Ryan Liebe, The New York Times)

Inspired by the combination of warm spices, nuts and sweet raisins used in Iranian dishes such as jeweled rice and various fragrant stews, this comforting and speedy one-pot chicken and rice gets a fragrant boost from turmeric and cardamom, plus roasted pistachios and golden raisins. Chicken thighs are browned in olive oil until golden, then the spices are bloomed in the same oil to release all of their aromas; the chicken and rice simmer in broth together. While saffron is often used to season rice and impart a golden hue, it is expensive. Dried ground turmeric is a great alternative that offers a similarly sunny hue and floral citrus notes. When all the liquid is absorbed by the rice, a prized layer of crispy socarrat forms on the bottom of the pot for anyone who enjoys the super toasty flavor. Stuff any leftovers with a dollop of yogurt or labneh into burritos for an easy desk lunch the next day.

By Kay Chun

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1 1/2- to 2-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
1 small red onion, thinly sliced (2 cups)
1 garlic clove, minced
1 (3-inch) cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1/8 teaspoon ground allspice
1 1/2 cups/about 11 ounces basmati rice, rinsed until the water runs clear
3 cups low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup roasted salted pistachios, coarsely chopped
1/4 cup sliced almonds (optional)
2 tablespoons chopped dill

Preparation

1. In a large Dutch oven or heavy lidded pot, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium. Season chicken with salt and pepper. Working in two batches, cook chicken, turning halfway through, just until no longer pink, about 3 minutes per batch. Transfer to a plate.

2. Decrease heat to low and add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, oil and the sliced onion to the pot. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 minutes. Add garlic, cinnamon, cardamom, turmeric and allspice and stir until well incorporated and fragrant, about 1 minute. Add rice and stir until thoroughly combined.

3. Add broth, raisins and pistachios, season well with salt and pepper and stir to lift up any browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Arrange chicken (with any accumulated juices) in an even layer on top and bring to a boil over high.

4. Cover and decrease heat to low. Cook, undisturbed, until all of the liquid is absorbed, rice is tender and chicken is cooked through, about 15 minutes. Turn off heat and let stand for 5 minutes.

5. Meanwhile, if using almonds, toast them in a small skillet over low, stirring, until golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

6. Discard cinnamon stick. Scatter dill over the chicken and rice, then divide among bowls. Top each with some of the toasted almonds (if using). Serve warm.

4. Mushrooms and Dumplings

Mushrooms and dumplings. If you find shiitake mushrooms too pricey, leave them out and add more cremini in their place. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh, The New York Times)

This hearty vegetarian riff on chicken and dumplings uses meaty fresh mushrooms and concentrated dried mushrooms to quickly build layers of rich flavor. Dried shiitakes, normally rehydrated before using, are grated into a fine powder that dissolves and fortifies the broth with intense mushroom umami. Make the dumpling mixture while the stew cooks and allow it to rest in the fridge for more tender dumplings. Once simmered, they emerge light and spongy on the outside, and slightly chewy on the inside.

By Kay Chun

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 50 Minutes

Ingredients

For the mushrooms:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 medium leeks (1 pound), white and light green parts only, thinly sliced (2 cups)
Kosher salt and black pepper
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 pound small white button or cremini mushrooms, quartered (5 1/2 cups)
8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced (about 3 cups)
2 carrots, thinly sliced (1 cup)
3 dried shiitake mushrooms, grated on a Microplane and stems discarded (1/3 cup)
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
4 cups mushroom broth
3 thyme sprigs
2 tablespoons heavy cream or whole milk
Chopped chives, for garnish

For the dumplings:

1 1/2 cups/205 grams all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond Crystal)
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 large egg
1/2 cup/120 grams whole milk
3 tablespoons/45 grams butter, melted

Preparation

1. Prepare the mushrooms: In a large Dutch oven, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in 1 tablespoon of the oil over medium-high. Add leeks, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, 3 minutes. Stir in garlic until fragrant, 1 minute. Add fresh mushrooms, carrots, the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon oil, and season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are softened and lightly golden, about 5 minutes.

2. Stir in grated shiitake powder and flour until mushrooms are evenly coated, about 1 minute. Add broth, 2 cups of water and thyme, and bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium and simmer, partially covered, for 10 minutes. Uncover and simmer until reduced and slightly thickened, about 5 to 10 minutes longer. Discard thyme sprigs, and stir in cream.

3. As the mushrooms simmer, make the dumplings: In a medium bowl, whisk flour, salt, baking powder, black pepper and baking soda until well combined. In a small bowl, whisk egg, milk and butter until well blended, then add to dry mixture and fold just until a dough forms. Refrigerate until ready to use.

4. Drop 12 equal spoonfuls of the dough into the pot, leaving some space in between. Cover and simmer gently over low heat until dumplings are puffed and cooked through, about 15 minutes. Divide among 4 bowls and garnish with chives.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

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