When you hit winter weather overload, and you’re tired of snowy scenescapes, head to Cortez.
Colorado’s quadrant of the Four Corners is filled with secrets of the past in its rugged and sometimes desolate desert landscape.
Here’s what to do when you’re ready to ditch the snow and head for the desert in Southwest Colorado.
Go on an ancient adventure
Mesa Verde National Monument was established by President Theodore Roosevelt in 1906 as the first national park to “preserve the works of man.” It’s home to Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dwelling in North America.
Winter is the perfect time to explore 700 years of Ancestral Pueblo history without crowds. Witnessing snowfall on the cliff dwellings is almost surreal.
Weather permitting, Mesa Top Loop Road is open for viewing Cliff Palace, Sun Temple, and other stops along the 6-mile drive. If you plan to hike, taking traction devices for any icy spots you might encounter is a good idea.
In winter, you can cross-country ski or snowshoe some trails. The visitor center and museum offer free snowshoe rentals.
Hike into the past
Canyons of the Ancients National Monument has the highest known density of archaeological sites in the United States. The monument spans 176,000 acres and has more than 6,000 known ancient sites.
Must-see sites include Lowry, Painted Hand, and San Canyon Pueblos. Book a guided tour with Durango Rivertrippers & Adventure Tours. If you want to hike on your own, head to the Sand Canyon South Trailhead in McElmo Canyon.
There are many unmarked dwellings and ruins along the trails. Part of the fun is searching for them.
Sip wine in McElmo Canyon
After a hike or bike ride, head to Sutcliffe Vineyards for a wine tasting.
The winery, started by John Sutcliffe, is a mini oasis in the ruggedness of McElmo Canyon. Producing 4,000 cases of wine a year, Sutcliffe has garnered more awards than any other vineyards in Colorado.
From chardonnay to grenache, it offers a variety of wines to taste and pair with a charcuterie board or light bites. It’s incredibly cozy in winter as you sip wine and stay warm sitting by a chiminea.
Stay at a ranch or nature preserve
If you seek non-traditional accommodations, some great options exist in southwest Colorado.
Waking up to the sounds of music piped through speakers for the Navajo-Churro sheep and feeding apples to a longhorn are part of what makes a ranch stay at Canyon of the Ancients Guest Ranch in McElmo Canyon unique. The cabins look like something straight out of a Ralph Lauren ad.
If you prefer a serene setting overlooking a lake, Willowtail Springs Nature Preserve and Education Center is a quiet retreat close to downtown Mancos and Mesa Verde National Park.
You can explore the 60 acres of high desert while staying in one of their three artsy cabins. You might meet an artist in residence working on a piece while on a one-to-three-week retreat.
Solitude at Yucca House
In Montezuma Valley, an expansive, mainly unexcavated pueblo surrounded by private ranches makes up Yucca House National Monument.
It’s one of nine national monuments in the state and one of the largest Ancestral Puebloan archaeological sites in Southwest Colorado. Because it’s unexcavated and has no facilities, it’s one of the least visited sites in the National Park Service.
As you explore the pueblo, imagining what life was like in A.D. 1150-1300 is fun. This pueblo is estimated to have 600 rooms, over 100 kivas, and a great kiva.
The tallest structure in the “Upper House” rises 15-20 feet above surrounding architecture and offers an incredible view of the valley.
You can also see some of the walls of the “Lower House,” an L-shaped pueblo with at least eight first-story rooms, and part of the low wall that would have enclosed the plaza.
Sample the cuisine scene
One of the biggest surprises of Southwest Colorado is its growing culinary scene.
Stop at Silver Bean Coffee, housed in a vintage airstream, for a latte or bagel sandwich.
Known for their unique burgers, including their Mesa Verde Ranch yak burger, The Farm Bistro sources as much as possible from Montezuma County’s agricultural community.
Loungin’ Lizard has an eclectic menu ranging from elk shepherd’s pie to pork belly tacos.
In nearby Mancos, Fahrenheit Coffee Roasters, Moondog Café and Bakery, and The Boathouse on Grand are all worth a stop.
Ride at Phil’s World
If you’re itching for a bike instead of a snowboard, Cortez might be Colorado’s best-kept secret for mountain biking.
Phil’s World, a trail system on a desert mesa, is excellent for beginner to intermediate riders. It has 27 miles of trails open for year-round riding, including easy rollers through pinon and juniper forests, short and steep drops, and moderately challenging obstacles.
If you have more time, Hovenweep National Monument straddling the Utah/Colorado line is fascinating.
Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center and Museum in Dolores is the premier archaeological museum in Southwest Colorado. It includes two ancient pueblos outside the building.
From ancient sites to outdoor adventures, Southwest Colorado is a great place to go when you want to ditch the snow for the desert.