By Melissa Clark, The New York Times
The iconic slice of meatloaf, nestled next to a mound of mashed potatoes and peas, is ensconced in the American mind as a comfort food ideal.
But that’s never been the case for me. I like my meatloaf best as a sandwich, preferably tucked between slices of buttered toast and shingled with sweet, sliced pickles and sharp raw onions.
I learned this from my mother, who learned it from my grandmother, so it can’t be wrong. Eating meatloaf hot from the oven for dinner is merely its first step toward final glory, which is to be meatloaf sandwiches for lunch the next day.
Even with this in mind, I was surprised when I came across the meatloaf recipe in Renee Erickson’s latest cookbook, “Sunlight and Breadcrumbs.” The Seattle chef and restaurateur (who owns the Walrus and the Carpenter, among others) not only concurs with my family’s meatloaf practice, but goes a step further. She doesn’t eat it hot at all, but bakes it the day before, as she writes in the recipe headnote, “in anticipation of the most delicious sandwiches, like a low-effort pâté of sorts that shines with soft-centered white bread and a leaf or two of extra-crunchy lettuce.”
I may quibble with her sandwich construction (to me, buttered toast is a must), but I eagerly gave her meatloaf a try.
It was a lot more intensely flavorful than most meatloaf recipes, with anchovies, garlic, Pecorino Romano cheese and grated orange zest kneaded into the ground meat. The biggest flex was that, instead of glazing the top with ketchup, she uses a combination of tomato purée and dry red wine.
The wine turns out to be key; it increases the juiciness of the finished loaf and adds a fruity acidity that balances its richness. Not only did Erickson’s recipe make one of the best meatloaf sandwiches I’d ever had, it was even terrific served hot from the oven when the meat is at its most crumbly and tender.
For this version I’ve adapted the recipe slightly, eliminating the anchovies (it didn’t need them, believe it or not), reducing the amount of wine (I kept some for sipping with dinner) and using all ground turkey in place of her mix of turkey, beef and pork (but you do you).
It makes for a classic-looking loaf with an outsize flavor that’s as comforting as meatloaf gets — mashed potatoes optional.
RECIPE: Turkey Meatloaf With Parmesan and Red Wine
This meatloaf has more verve than most: The ground meat (in this case turkey, but you can substitute beef or pork) is seasoned with grated orange zest, garlic and Parmesan for maximum oomph. But the real secret lies in the tomato sauce that stripes the center and top of the loaf, which is spiked with red wine. The tangy sauce adds color and complexity to the loaf and helps keep it extra juicy as it bakes. Serve this with mashed potatoes and peas for a classic, comforting meal, then tuck leftover slices into buttered toast the next day for the best meatloaf sandwiches imaginable.
Recipe from Renee Erickson
Adapted by Melissa Clark
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
Total time: 1 1/2 hours
Ingredients
- Olive oil, for greasing
- 2/3 cup dry red wine
- 1/2 cup crushed tomatoes (or tomato purée or tomato sauce)
- 1 tablespoon soy sauce
- 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
- Pinch of crushed red-pepper flakes
- 3 garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
- 2 pounds ground turkey
- 1 1/4 cups panko breadcrumbs
- 3/4 cup grated Parmesan
- 1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt, plus more as needed
- 1 large egg
- 1/2 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, basil or cilantro
Preparation
1. Heat oven to 375 degrees. Lightly grease a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan and place it on a rimmed baking sheet.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together wine, crushed tomatoes, soy sauce, orange zest, red pepper and 1 minced or grated garlic clove.
3. In a large bowl, combine the ground turkey, 1 cup panko, cheese, salt, egg, remaining garlic and chopped herbs. Use your fingers to gently combine.
4. Pack half of the meat mixture in the bottom of the prepared loaf pan. Pour in three-quarters of the wine mixture, reserving about a quarter for the top layer. Cover with the remaining meat mixture. Drizzle with reserved red wine mixture (it may come to the top of the pan, depending on your pan; the baking sheet is there to catch any overflow). Sprinkle the remaining panko on top and season lightly with a little more salt.
5. Bake the meatloaf until the panko on top is golden brown and the internal temperature reaches 155 degrees, 65 to 75 minutes.
6. Let cool for a few minutes, then unmold by lifting the meatloaf out of the pan with a spatula (it will have shrunk, so it should be easy to lift out). Slice and serve right away, with some of the juices from the pan if you like. Or if using for sandwiches, refrigerate overnight and unmold. Slice when it’s cold.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.