Averaging 430 inches of natural snow annually, Wolf Creek Ski Area is known for getting “the most snow in Colorado.”
While the slopes are a big draw in winter, Pagosa Springs, just 30 minutes west of the ski area, offers a plethora of winter activities, from steamy to icy. When I had out-of-state friends visiting, and one doesn’t ski, we set out to find fun off the slopes in this quaint town in southwest Colorado.
Here are six things to do in Pagosa Springs.
Soak in thermal waters from the Mother Spring
“Pagosah” is a Southwestern Ute word translating to “healing waters.”
Centuries ago, members of the Ute tribes were the original soakers in the geothermal mineral waters and discovered the “Mother Spring” that is now part of The Springs Resort and Spa.
Guinness World Records certified it to be 1002 feet, but the actual depth is unknown. While you can’t soak or even touch the Mother Spring since the surface temperature can range from 130-144°F, it feeds the soaking pools in Pagosa Springs.
The Springs Resort and Spa already has the most geothermal hot spring pools in Colorado, with 25 pools of varying temperatures from 83-114°F, but it will open 25 more pools as part of an expansion this spring. But area there other nearby spas as well.
Healing Waters Resort and Spa, founded in 1950, may offer the most budget-friendly accommodations for staying where you soak with its hotel rooms, suites, and cozy cabins.
Overlook Hot Springs Spa has one of the best views in town as you soak in their rooftop tubs. Typically less crowded, it’s a locals’ favorite.
Day passes are available at all three, but if you stay overnight at The Springs or Healing Waters, you get extra time to enjoy the therapeutic waters.
A tip for day visitors to soak without crowds is to go between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m.
Find zen in aqua yoga
Try an aqua yoga class at The Springs Resort and Spa for an extra tranquil moment.
Wellness classes are complimentary for overnight guests.
The early morning class is a perfect way to ease into the day.
The mineral-rich water adds an extra boost of wellness to your yoga practice. Plus, you get to enjoy the stunning view overlooking the San Juan River as you go through a flow and find namaste in your practice.
The water’s salinity level is like sea water, which helps you hold positions not necessarily attainable in a traditional yoga class.
Other benefits include boosting brain activity and ridding the body of toxins. For a meditative experience, take an aqua sound bathing class.
Hike to ice caves
Enjoy a 30-minute drive through a pastoral landscape to hike Ice Cave Ridge along the Piedra River. You’ll see two fissures with snow and ice in them year-round just beyond the half-mile mark.
Keep an eye on children and dogs, as falling into one is easy.
As we hiked up the ridge, we saw a third, smaller ice cave.
Bolt up the steep, short stretch for ridgeline views of the Weminuche Wilderness and the San Juan Mountains.
On the hike down, soak in the beauty of the sparkling Piedra River surrounded by snow.
We hiked with microspikes, but you can rent snowshoes or cross-country skis from Pagosa Mountain Sports.
High adrenaline adventures
For faster fun, go dog sledding or snowmobiling.
If you’re a dog lover, drive your sled team of Alaskan Huskies with Mountain Paws Dog Sledding. Your adrenaline will pump as you work with a team of canine athletes on scenic trails in the San Juan National Forest.
Rev up the fun snowmobiling with Wolf Creek Snowmobile Tours. I went on their guided tour on Wolf Creek Pass and had a ball going through wooded terrain, mountain meadows where you can let it rip, and to the top of the Continental Divide.
From a family of first-timers to advanced adrenaline junkies, they can accommodate any level of riders.
Eat your way through town
Pagosa’s culinary scene thrives with delicious dining options, from your morning coffee to a nightcap.
I visit these places every time I’m in town.
Start your day at Root House + Shop. It’s a coffee shop, bakery, cocktail bar, and lifestyle shop.
After ordering your latte, peruse the wares in the shop curated by Root House founders Ben and Christi Dozier, stars of Building Roots on HGTV. The house cinnamon rolls are to die for and sell out early. This Southern gal always orders the pimento cheese for a snack later or to take home to Denver.
For a hearty breakfast or delightful lunch, pop into Pagosa Baking Company. The baked goods are scrumptious, and the burritos are huge. A sandwich made with homemade bread or quiche pairs beautifully with their daily soup options for lunch.
A visit to Pagosa isn’t complete without dinner at Kip’s Grill and Cantina. I’m a big fan of their fish tacos.
For an upscale dinner, Meander Riverside Eatery is a farm-to-table experience.
Sip a craft cocktail in the swanky Neon Mallard cocktail lounge for an after-dinner drink.
Stroll along the San Juan Riverwalk
When the path isn’t icy, take a stroll on the San Juan Riverwalk. The trail starts at Town Park and ends at the Ross Aragon Community Center.
You might catch a few folks soaking in the small spring-fed pools on the San Juan River. Dubbed “Hippie Dips,” they’re free.
Continue to Centennial Park, where you can’t miss the dome greenhouses. Growing Spaces, a local company, makes the geodesic domes for sustainable year-round gardening.
The Riverwalk Wetlands are remarkably serene shortly after sunrise or during the golden hour in the late afternoon.
Since the water doesn’t freeze, it’s an excellent area for birding and is stunning in winter, providing a tranquil respite of solitude in this flourishing small town.