Editor’s note: This is part of The Know’s series, Staff Favorites. Each week, we give our opinions on the best that Colorado has to offer for dining, shopping, entertainment, outdoor activities and more. (We’ll also let you in on some hidden gems.)
When you step onto the patio of Town & Country Market at East Colfax Avenue and Bellaire Street — three blocks away from the frenetic energy of Colfax and Colorado Boulevard — you may feel uncertain. What is this rundown market with its empty winter patio and bare shelves, and is it open? Am I in the right place? Just as you’re about to second-guess yourself, you see it, tucked under a metal awning: a white door marked only with the silhouette of a fish.
That’s the sign that you’re about to buy the freshest, most incredible seafood you’ve ever tasted in landlocked Denver — and priced so reasonably, you’ll feel like you found the holy grail of groceries.
The market is home to Alaskan Salmon Company, whose sparse website shows signs it may not have been updated since 1997. There is little information save for a short backstory about 17-year-old Duffy Fanganello “fishing the salmon runs of Bristol Bay, Alaska,” establishing the company in 1989 to “import fresh seafood to the Rocky Mountain region.” No online ordering, no social media profiles and no price lists, even, as those links are dead and may have been for years.
When you step inside the market, you’ll find a bare-bones operation with mostly empty shelves — maybe some plants in the spring and summertime, some seeds to prep for planting are there now — and a few fridges and freezers carrying everything from sushi-grade Ahi tuna and whole snapper to little packages of salmon bits sold as pet snacks.
And yes, Duffy still owns it, and comes in once in a while, especially during busier months.
Like any good seafood market, the offerings (and prices) are based on the season and current availability, but I keep going back for stunning cuts of fresh salmon. (On Feb. 11, coho silver and sockeye salmon cost $20 per pound.) A little salt, pepper and olive oil — and just enough time in the oven to get the fish just shy of 145 degrees — and you’ll be shocked at how moist and flavorful it is.
(Here’s a tip: Cut off the fatty belly — the thin part — so the rest of the fish cooks evenly. But don’t toss it; cook it separately and take it out sooner for a taste of what’s to come.)
Alaskan Salmon sells to local restaurants like the View House and Chop House as well as being open to the public, according to an employee.
It’s clear this company saves its time and energy for what matters: quality sourcing, great selection and an impeccable product. In the age of Instagram ads, email marketing campaigns and an overemphasis on curb appeal, Alaskan Salmon Company stands out for focusing on none of that.
But that isn’t a criticism; it’s a sign that this business sells a product so great, it has survived 36 years with no need whatsoever for the trappings of modern commerce.
Don’t believe me? Get some, cook it and take a bite.
Alaskan Salmon Company, 4300 East Colfax Ave. Open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week; 303-333-FISH (3474).