Hal B. Klein | (TNS) Pittsburgh Post-Gazette
PITTSBURGH — Radishes are a fast-growing vegetable, which makes them ideal for fall rotation planting. In just three or four weeks, radishes can go from seed to harvest, bringing quick returns just as other crops start to wane. This short growing cycle lets gardeners and farmers offer fresh, spicy flavors as the last of the autumn leaves fall from the trees.
Radishes sometimes get a bad rap in literature and popular culture as an unsatisfying or even kind of lame option.
In Samuel Beckett’s “Waiting for Godot,” they become a point of frustration when the character Estragon longs for a sweet, juicy carrot. Vladimir, however, only has red radishes. Estragon passes on taking one because he only likes the black variety (a cold weather radish known for its thick, tough exterior and extra-sharp flavor).
Though radishes are often associated with spring, they’re also an autumnal market-fresh star in Western Pennsylvania. Frost deepens the sweetness.
There are a wide variety of radishes at farmers markets right now. You’re likely familiar with Cherry Belle, the small, round cherry-red type that are zesty with a bright crunch. French Breakfast radishes, with their oblong shape and white tips, offer a milder, nutty flavor. They’re a great option for those looking for a softer radish experience.
Daikon radishes, long and white, perhaps the most popular variety in much of Asia, thrive in Pennsylvania soil; they have a juicy, slightly sweet taste in the fall. The watermelon radish varietal eats mellow, but brings a bit of flair to the party with a pink-red interior hidden behind an off-white or greenish skin.
Thinly sliced raw radishes offer a refreshing, peppery punch to salads or slaws; their vibrant colors bring a little pastel excitement to cold-weather plates, too. Pairing raw radishes with butter, a classic French technique, balances the vegetable’s sharpness by adding a creamy contrast.
Cooking radishes softens their punch. Roasting with olive oil, salt and a hint of rosemary brings out a subtle sugar and a satisfying texture. Sautéing them with butter and a splash of vinegar until just tender is a roadmap to a sweet and sour side dish.
In my opinion, Haruki Murakami has a more astute take on the austere vegetable. “I think most people take the radish for granted,” his “Norwegian Wood” protagonist Toru Watanabe says.
Now is the time to celebrate them.
Radish Salad
PG tested
This crunchy, refreshing Tunisian-inspired salad is super easy to prepare and will add a pop of color to any table. Generally served in small portions, it makes a lovely accompaniment to any meal and can also be used to dress up sandwiches.
1 bunch of red radishes, about 1 1/2 cups finely chopped (choose a variety)
1/2 bunch of parsley, about 1/2 cup finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lemon juice
2 pinches of salt
1 pinch of pepper
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Wash radishes, remove the stems and cut off any long roots. Cube into small bite-sized pieces.
Wash parsley and gently shake it dry. Finely mince.
Place cubed radishes and minced parsley in a small salad bowl.
Add lemon juice, salt and pepper. Toss gently. Add olive oil and toss again.
Taste the salad and add lemon juice and salt to your liking.
Serves 4.
— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
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