Metro Denver’s food scene has never been as vibrant as it is today, something The Denver Post’s food writers and the rest of the staff of The Know understand. That’s why we’re out on the town as much as possible. Each month, we’ll provide you with recommendations about a few of the dishes we tried over the previous weeks. Want to hear about them early? Subscribe to the Stuffed newsletter, where we introduce one of these dishes every Wednesday.
Xiquita
I credit the concept of the “perfect bite” to my college roommate, Mauricio. At In-N-Out Burger, he would, in rapid succession, take a bite from his burger before adding in a couple of fries dunked in a strawberry milkshake. This new addition to the menu at Xiquita, a modern restaurant rooted in traditional Mexican cooking, was my perfect bite: a ribeye steak taco topped with French fries and served on a nixtamal tortilla with a side of salsa verde.
500 E. 19th Ave., Denver; xiquita.co
La Loteria
My full report on the pork green chile soup served at La Loteria on South Broadway — a first-round exit in our March Madness bracket — is based on an interview with the Mexican restaurant’s owner. I wasn’t expecting this quaint little soup to have such an effect on me, yet I probably looked like the little kid in the Campbell’s Chicken Noodle Soup commercial eating it, a snowman defrosting after a weary day. Green chile might be basic or overrated to some, but there is a reason it’s sustained generations. It’s got all you need.
42 S. Broadway, Denver; laloteriadenver.com
Fat Sully’s at Atomic Cowboy
Gorgeous weather got us out of the house last Sunday for an early-bird dinner at the Fat Sully’s/Atomic Cowboy location on South Broadway. Bartenders, bussers, and cooks juggled orders from diners, many of whom were also there to watch an afternoon hockey game on TV and enjoy some St. Patrick’s Day weekend festivities. The bar and grill offered a three-course menu whose price made my eyes pop, if only because I didn’t register it until we got the bill. For $25 each ($50 total), we split a Caesar salad and order of Sully’s Fries — waffle fries smothered in gravy, pimento cheese sauce, bacon and onions (above) — as the first course; a chicken sandwich and a double-patty cheeseburger as the main course; and two orders of Oreo knots for dessert. The meal also came with two drinks. Some of this food came home with us, but not most of it.
It was a deal — and absolutely the right way to end a festive weekend.
141 S. Broadway, Denver; theatomiccowboy.com
Nick’s Restaurant and Bar
I don’t get to spend much time in Fort Collins, but a recent visit and stay near the Colorado State University campus allowed me to try Nick’s Restaurant and Bar, which has a menu full of Italian-American staples like pizza, pasta and fried mozzarella sticks. I chose the spaghetti and meatballs ($18.95), which came with more than enough of each on the plate, along with plenty of parmesan. It even came with a big spoon for twirling, unlocking childhood memories of eating at Oregano’s, an Arizona restaurant chain.
1100 S. College Ave., Ft. Collins; nicksfc.com