Three days before his new pizza shop was set to open in Denver’s Art District on Santa Fe, Jake Rothey was blending edamame into plant-based ricotta, accepting a 10-pound case of blue oyster mushrooms and detailing his love of down-to-earth dining, all at the same time.
Rothey, 36, is the chef, proprietor and sole employee at The PZA, a tiny, mostly takeout and delivery pizza-and-more spot that opens Friday at 644 Santa Fe Drive.
Rothey’s been in the food industry for 20 years, with jobs from dishwashing and prep cooking to management at pizzerias, bakeries and upscale eateries across the Denver metro. But it started with pizza, and pizza is where his heart remained.
The first version of The PZA operated out of a rented kitchen at the Tight End, a bar on East Colfax Avenue beginning in 2022. But Rothey closed up shop there in May so he could find a brick-and-mortar storefront of his own.
The PZA serves up naturally leavened pies – think sourdough, but less tang – inspired by familiar favorites that are a little outside of the (pizza) box, like the B.I.G. Island, which remixes Hawaiian pizza to include bacon, jalapeno and house-made pineapple jam.
Rothey described his approach at The PZA as a mix of Old World Italian and East Coast vibes – note the homage to Wu-Tang Clan rapper RZA.
“I’m thinking about your pizza about five days before you’re going to sit down and share it,” Rothey said.
Opening his own place allowed him to focus a little less on what bar patrons would want to eat and more on what he’s interested in cooking. “Here, I’m focused on where my heart is,” he said.
That includes the Bourdain, a sandwich inspired by the late culinary icon Anthony Bourdain. Mortadella, provolone, mayonnaise and dijon mustard are served warm on soft, homemade bread.
Or customers can stick with pizza and follow those blue oyster mushrooms to an MF Shroom, a pizza named after Rothey’s favorite rapper, MF Doom. The white pie includes garlic, burrata, mushrooms, pancetta and arugula.
Regardless of the order, new patrons will have the best luck enjoying The PZA as takeout or delivery, Rothey said. The shop’s seating is limited to two tables by the counter.
The PZA is open from 4 to 9 p.m., Wednesday through Sunday. Pizzas start at $17 for 12 inch, $24 for 18 inch. Order in person or online at thepzadenver.com.