I’ve always wanted to go to Iran, the country my parents fled in the late 1970s just before the revolution. But for so many reasons — political tensions, family fears, shifting circumstances — that trip never happened.
As someone who creates recipes professionally, cooking has become my way of closing the distance. And during Nowruz, the Persian New Year, which begins Thursday, the spring equinox, and runs for 13 days, food takes on greater significance. Each dish, each ingredient symbolizes something greater: herbs for rebirth; fish for prosperity; sweet, sticky confections to usher in a year of joy.
The celebrations begin even before Nowruz itself, with Chaharshanbe Suri, the festival of fire. Growing up, small bonfires would be assembled in my uncle’s backyard, and everyone — kids and adults alike — would leap over the flames, burning away past hardships and absorbing warmth for the year ahead. Music would blast, conversations would switch between English and Farsi, and the air would thicken with smoke, laughter and the smell of sizzled mint for ash reshteh, a thick, herby soup with beans and long noodles, meant to bring luck and guidance.
Once the holiday officially began, it was time for the haftseen, the ceremonial spread. As a kid, I barely thought about its meaning. But while I watched cooking shows and ate as much as I could, my mother would carefully arrange our family’s seven symbolic items: sabzeh (wheatgrass) for renewal; seeb (apples) for beauty; serkeh (vinegar) for patience; seer (garlic) for health; senjed (wild olive) for love; samanu (wheat germ pudding) for affluence; and sonbol (hyacinth) for spring. I remember how the hyacinth’s scent would fill the house, and how, at the exact moment of the equinox, cheers, tears and plenty of kisses would welcome the new year.
And, of course, I remember the food — specifically my mother’s sabzi polo mahi, or herbed rice with fish. She long served hers with seared salmon, sour oranges and plenty of pickled garlic. Over the years, she’s started making my version: a boneless, skinless fillet that’s slowly roasted with leeks, garlic, dill, saffron and a heavy hand of olive oil.
But if there’s one dish that feels like it belongs to me, it’s kuku sabzi. It was the first Persian dish I truly felt confident making on my own. My recipe continues to evolve, as I fine-tune the balance of fenugreek, turmeric and eggs, making sure the texture is just right. Some families add walnuts and barberries, but I keep mine simple, letting the herbs take center stage.
These days, as I place a hyacinth in my home and gather friends around a table, I think about how I’ve carved my own traditions out of my family’s, out of my culture’s. Some years, I lean traditional for the holiday, re-creating the exact dishes I grew up with. Other times, I make small tweaks, finding new ways to bring these flavors into my cooking. The recipes below honor the core of the holiday, while reflecting evolving traditions — rooted in the past, but always moving forward.
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Recipe: Ash Reshteh (Greens, Beans and Noodle Soup)
By Andy Baraghani
Among ash, a beloved category of thick soups in Iranian cuisine, ash reshteh is the most famous. Packed with legumes, a mountain of greens and reshteh, thin, flat noodles similar to linguine, it’s a hearty dish traditionally eaten on Chaharshanbe Suri, the Festival of Fire that falls on the Wednesday before Nowruz, the Persian New Year. The soup is finished with sizzled mint, crispy onions and kashk, an Iranian dairy product akin to a funkier sour cream. Kashk has a bold, umami-rich salty-sour flavor that’s unlike anything else. It’s worth trying to buy at a Middle Eastern market, but since it can be hard to find, a mix of lemon juice and sour cream or Greek yogurt makes a great substitute.
Yield: 6 servings (about 13 cups)
Total time: 1 1/2 hours, plus overnight soaking
Ingredients:
- 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 3 large onions, halved then thinly sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/2 cup brown lentils, rinsed
- 1/2 cup dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained (see Tip)
- 1/2 cup dried cranberry or navy beans, soaked overnight and drained (see Tip)
- 2 teaspoons ground turmeric
- 8 ounces reshteh or linguine
- 2 bunches Swiss chard (about 10 ounces each), stems removed and leaves coarsely chopped
- 1 1/2 cups finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems (from about 3 bunches)
- 1 cup finely chopped dill (from about 2 bunches)
- 2 tablespoons dried ground mint
- 1/2 cup kashk (or 1/2 cup sour cream or Greek yogurt mixed with 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice; see Tip)
Preparation:
1. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add a third of the onions and all the garlic, season with salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and well browned in most spots, 10 to 12 minutes.
2. Add the lentils, chickpeas, cranberry beans and turmeric, and stir to coat everything, about 1 minute.
3. Pour in 12 cups of water, season generously with salt and pepper, and bring to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium-low and gently simmer, skimming off any foam that rises to the top, until the beans and chickpeas are almost cooked through but still have a bite to them, 35 to 45 minutes. (This may take longer depending on the age of your beans and how long they were soaked.) If you’d like, you can prep your chard, parsley and dill while the beans simmer.
4. Add the reshteh (or the linguine, broken in half) to the pot, along with the Swiss chard, parsley and dill. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are creamy, the noodles are tender and the greens have fully wilted, 20 to 25 minutes. Taste and adjust seasonings with salt and pepper. The greens should have released some liquid, but if the soup is too thick to stir easily, thin it with water.
5. While the soup simmers, heat 1/2 cup olive oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add the remaining onions and cook, stirring often, until deeply golden brown and frizzled, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel to drain and season with salt.
6. Carefully wipe out the skillet, return it to medium heat, and add the remaining ¼ cup olive oil. Stir in the mint and cook until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 1 minute. Set aside.
7. Divide the soup among bowls and top each with some kashk, a drizzle of mint oil and a handful of the crispy onions.
TIPS:
If you forgot to soak your beans and chickpeas overnight, just boil them in water for 10 minutes to cut down on the cooking time. Drain before adding them to the soup in Step 2.
If you can’t purchase kashk, you can mix together sour cream or Greek yogurt with lemon juice and season with a big pinch of salt. It should have a slightly thicker consistency than heavy cream.
Recipe: Sabzi Polo (Herbed Rice With Saffron)
By Andy Baraghani
Sabzi polo is an essential part of Nowruz, the Persian New Year, symbolizing renewal and prosperity with its vibrant mix of fresh herbs. This fragrant, fluffy rice dish is traditionally served with fish, honoring an age-old custom that ties the holiday to themes of abundance and good fortune. The combination of dill, cilantro and parsley infuses the rice with a bright, earthy aroma, while saffron lends a deep golden hue. One of the most treasured parts of sabzi polo is the tahdig, a golden, crispy layer at the bottom of the pot. In this version, tender lettuce leaves create a unique variation of tahdig. To ensure the tahdig releases beautifully, use a nonstick pot. Serve this alongside mast-o-khiar, a cucumber-yogurt sauce, which can be spooned over the rice or used as a dip for the crispy tahdig.
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
- 3 cups basmati rice
- Salt
- 1 bunch scallions (about 5), finely chopped
- 1 cup finely chopped cilantro leaves and tender stems
- 1 cup finely chopped dill leaves and tender stems
- 1 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems
- 3 tablespoons canola or grapeseed oil
- 4 to 6 romaine lettuce leaves, dark parts only
- 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
- 1 teaspoon saffron threads
- 1 tablespoon dried rose petals (optional), finely crushed
Preparation:
1. Place the rice in a large bowl and cover with lukewarm water. Submerge your hand in the bowl and agitate the grains until the water becomes cloudy. Tip out as much water as you can. Refill the bowl with water and repeat three more times, until the water is almost clear. Cover the rice again with water and set aside.
2. Bring a large nonstick pot or an enameled cast-iron pot of water to boil. Once the water boils, throw in two large handfuls of salt. The water should be very well seasoned, as it is for cooking pasta. Drain the rice and add to the pot, stirring for the first minute to prevent it from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Return to a boil and cook until the grains begin to float to the top and are almost tender, 3 to 6 minutes. It’s better to slightly undercook the rice here than to risk it becoming mushy. Drain the rice and rinse with cold water to prevent it from cooking further. Rinse and reserve the pot.
3. Combine the scallions, cilantro, dill and parsley in a medium bowl.
4. Pour the oil into the pot and layer the lettuce leaves to completely cover the bottom of the pot. (It’s OK if the leaves overlap.) Using a wooden spoon, scatter a third of the rice over the lettuce then sprinkle with a third of the herb mix. Repeat, alternating layers of rice and herbs, to form a mound. Using the handle of the wooden spoon, poke several holes in the mound (without hitting the bottom of the pot) to allow steam to rise to the top.
5. Dot the rice with the butter, then cover and place over medium-high heat. Cook for 6 to 8 minutes, at which point you should start to hear a sizzle. Turn the heat to medium-low and continue to steam the rice, still covered, until it is fluffy and fragrant, 25 to 30 minutes.
6. While the rice is steaming, crush the saffron using a mortar and pestle until you have a fine powder. (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, use a spoon to crush it as finely as you can.) Transfer to a medium bowl and pour 2 tablespoons of warm water on top.
7. Remove the pot of rice from the heat and let it rest for 10 minutes. Uncover and transfer 1 1/2 cups rice to the bowl with saffron water and toss to stain the rice.
8. To serve, gently scatter the herb rice onto a platter. Top with the saffron rice and rose petals (if using). Use a wooden spoon to break the tahdig into pieces (the lettuce will have become crinkled, glossy and crunchy). Serve the tahdig alongside the rice.
Recipe: Slow-Cooked Fish With Citrus and Herbs
By Andy Baraghani
During Nowruz, the Persian New Year, it’s customary to serve fish alongside sabzi polo, buttery herbed saffron rice, as a nod to renewal and prosperity. Traditionally, white fish is smoked or fried, but this dish brings in many of the same key ingredients — fragrant saffron, fresh herbs and citrus — while embracing a more effortless, slow-roasted approach. A flaky white fish like cod or halibut works beautifully here, but salmon also works and tastes especially luxurious when bathed in olive oil, garlic and dill.
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 45 minutes
Ingredients:
- 1 teaspoon saffron threads
- 3 medium leeks, trimmed
- 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
- 1 lemon (preferably Meyer), very thinly sliced into rounds, seeds picked out
- 1 clementine or mandarin orange, very thinly sliced, seeds picked out
- Salt
- 2 1/2 pounds boneless, skinless halibut, cod or salmon, preferably one large center-cut piece
- 1/2 cup coarsely chopped dill or tarragon or a combination
Preparation:
1. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. Crush the saffron threads into a fine powder in a mortar and pestle. (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, use a spoon to crush it as finely as you can.) Dump out the ground saffron into a small bowl and pour 3 tablespoons of warm water over it. Set aside.
2. Cut the leeks in half lengthwise then coarsely chop. Give the leeks a good rinse to get rid of any dirt or sand.
3. Heat 1/4 cup of oil in a large skillet over medium. Add the leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the garlic and all citrus slices, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until the garlic and citrus have softened and everything smells very delicious, 2 to 3 minutes. Slide the skillet off the heat and scoop out half the leek mixture into a small bowl.
4. Generously season the fish with salt on all sides and place in the center of the skillet over the leeks. Pour the saffron water over and around the fish, then top with the remaining leek mixture. Scatter the dill all over and pour in the remaining 1/2 cup oil. Transfer the skillet to the oven.
5. Bake until the fish is opaque and easily flakes off with a fork around the thickest part, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve as is in the skillet or use two forks to tear the fish into large pieces and transfer to a platter. Spoon all the leeks, citrus and fat over, taste and season with more salt if needed, and serve.
Recipe: Kuku Sabzi (Herb and Scallion Frittata)
By Andy Baraghani
Packed with an abundance of fresh herbs, kuku is a frittatalike Persian dish with many regional and household variations. This version, kuku sabzi, is the most herb-forward, allowing the greens to take center stage. While kuku is often flipped to brown on both sides, this version skips that step and allows the egg on top to set under the broiler, which helps retain its vibrant green color. Some families mix in walnuts or tart dried barberries for added texture and flavor, but this rendition keeps it simple, letting the herbs shine. Kuku is traditionally served with flatbread and can be enjoyed warm, at room temperature or even cold. For a perfect bite, wrap it in lavash with a dollop of yogurt, slices of salty feta and crisp radishes, which balance the richness with bright, fresh flavors.
Yield: 6 servings
Total time: 1 hour
Ingredients:
- 3 bunches cilantro
- 3 bunches flat-leaf parsley
- 2 bunches dill
- 2 bunches scallions (about 10), thinly sliced
- 1 tablespoon dried fenugreek leaves
- 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal) or 3/4 teaspoon fine salt
- 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
- 5 large eggs
- 1/4 cup canola or grapeseed oil
- Barbari, lavash, pita or other flatbread, for serving
- Torshi (Persian pickles) or other savory pickled cucumbers, for serving
- Mast-o-khiar or plain yogurt, for serving
Preparation:
1. Prepare the herbs: When preparing such a large quantity of herbs, wash them in batches to ensure any lingering sand or dirt is fully removed. Trim off the thick stems (about 4 inches from the bottoms) of the cilantro, parsley and dill. Grab a large handful of the herbs and, using a chef’s knife, finely chop. Repeat with the remaining herbs until you have about 4 1/2 cups total. Transfer the chopped herbs to a large bowl and add the scallions.
2. Using your fingertips, pinch and grind the fenugreek, sprinkling it over the herb mixture. Add the salt, pepper and turmeric. Add the eggs and use a fork to break the yolks and then fully incorporate the eggs into the herb mixture. (It may seem like not enough eggs, but you want just enough to bind the mixture.)
3. Place an oven rack 5 inches from the broiler heat source and heat the broiler. Pour the oil into a 10-inch nonstick ovenproof skillet and place it over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, give the kuku batter a final mix and then scrape it into the skillet. Using a spatula, spread the batter to the sides of the skillet. Cover and cook, rotating the skillet to ensure it cooks evenly, until the bottom has set and darkened to a very dark green, almost brown color, 10 to 12 minutes.
4. Remove the skillet from the heat and remove the lid. The top of the kuku will still be a touch wet but very green. Transfer the skillet to the broiler and broil, watching carefully, until the top is set, anywhere from 1 to 4 minutes. Slide the kuku onto a platter or cutting board. Let cool for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with flatbread, pickles and mast-o-khiar.
Recipe: Cucumber Yogurt With Sizzled Mint and Crunchy Pistachios
By Andy Baraghani
A signature dish in Persian cuisine, mast-o-khiar is a creamy yogurt dish that is often served with rice, grilled meats or warm flatbread for dipping. At its core, it’s a simple yet refreshing combination of yogurt, cucumber and dried mint bloomed in oil. This version adds a few extra layers of flavor — bright lemon juice and zest for tang, raisins for a sweet chewiness and pistachios for crunch. The sizzled dried mint brings a deep, earthy smokiness that fresh mint just can’t replicate. Light yet satisfying, it’s the perfect cooling contrast to rich, spice-laden dishes.
Yield: About 4 cups
Total time: 15 minutes
Ingredients:
- 3 Persian cucumbers, finely chopped (about 2 cups)
- 3 cups plain Greek yogurt (about 24 ounces)
- 3 tablespoons raisins, chopped
- 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
- 1 garlic clove, finely grated
- 1/3 cup shelled raw pistachios, finely chopped
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons dried mint
Preparation:
1. Combine the cucumber, yogurt, raisins, lemon juice, garlic and half the pistachios in a medium bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper and mix well.
2. Heat the oil in a small skillet over medium. Stir in the mint and cook until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 1 minute.
3. Spoon the sizzled mint mixture over the yogurt and top with the remaining pistachios.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.