The New York Times has released its annual list of the best restaurants in the United States, and this year, three Colorado spots took their places alongside foodie destinations in cities like Miami, New Orleans, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Nashville and, of course, New York.
Two of these restaurants are relatively new — and focused on Asian cuisine cooked by second-generation chefs, something that represents the rising influence of AAPI culture in Denver.
The third touts a lesser-known restaurant in Pagosa Springs.
The first selection, Denver Vietnamese restaurant Sắp Sửa, doubles down on the national media’s love for the 15-month-old old business at 2550 E. Colfax Ave.
Since the husband-and-wife team Anna and Ni Nguyen opened what they call their ‘nontraditional Vietnamese restaurant,’ they have been stacking accolades, including … a James Beard semifinalist nod,” the newspaper wrote in part. “All well deserved. Their trứng và trứng alone would warrant the praise. Described simply as “soft scrambled egg, brown butter, fish sauce, trout roe, rice,” the dish coaxes the humble egg into an improbably rich, custardy realm.”
Bon Appetit named Sắp Sửa among the best new restaurants in the country just two weeks ago.
The chili wontons at Yuan Wonton are made with shrimp and pork and wrapped in light egg dough, then doused in Szechuan hot chili oil and Chinese black vinegar. (Provided by Yuan Wonton)
The second restaurant to make the list is Yuan Wonton, which opened last year at 2878 Fairfax St, in Denver’s Park Hill neighborhood. “After four years as a beloved food truck, chef Penelope Wong’s dumpling operation found a brick-and-mortar home last year. Part of the joy here is the variety of choices, several of which rotate. There are Hong Kong-style “YW OG” wontons in Sichuan chile oil, tom kha chicken wontons, Chinese chive pockets and steamed chashu pork bao. All are expertly constructed with handmade doughs,” the New York Times wrote.
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And finally, the New York Times noted the enticements of Meander Riverside Eatery, an upscale farm-to-table restaurant in Pagosa Springs.
“Tucked into the southern reaches of the San Juan Mountains, Meander is a gem of a country restaurant. The chef Justin Jacobs spent time in the kitchen at Frasca, in Boulder, among the region’s most renowned restaurants, but has left the white-tablecloth life behind. The menu here is unapologetically eclectic, with quality ingredients, especially produce, and sure-handed cooking keeps it coherent,” the New York Times wrote. “A Dutch baby topped with a creamy lump crab meat mixture made a novel twist on breakfast for dinner, while a “patio smoked” bratwurst, made in house, was a deftly spiced version of that quintessential cased meat.”