Wine sales are in general global decline – with one noble exception. The organic wine market is booming, and set to triple in value by 2030, according to a recent report cited by The Drinks Business.
But is pesticide-free vino an “overpriced gimmick” or could it be instrumental in helping the wine industry recover? Organic wine is certainly a “bright” spot in what has been a particularly troubling time for wine producers, said Rosamund Hall in The Independent. It seems consumers are beginning to follow a “drink less, but better” mantra, which favours eco-friendly wines.
For a wine to be certified organic, grapes must be grown in a vineyard entirely free from herbicides, pesticides and synthetic fertilisers, relying instead on natural fertilisers and pest control. This hands-off approach comes with its fair share of challenges, from disease outbreaks to lower yields.
To identify an organic wine, take a closer look at the packaging. Organic wines produced in the EU will feature a green leaf logo, “whose edges are made up by, you guessed it, the stars of the EU flag”. Other countries have their own version; in the UK, keep an eye out for the Soil Association label or the OFG: Organic Farmers and Growers label.
It’s also important to remember that not all producers can afford to pay for the costly process of organic certification, so you shouldn’t necessarily mistrust an “organic” claim on a bottle from a small winemaker, just because you can’t spot the logo.
Organic wines tend to have lower levels of sulphur than their traditional counterparts, giving them a “finer, more delicate texture”, said Will Lyons in The Times. But the “labour intensive” nature of organic farming, coupled with the smaller grapes and lower yields, means organic wines are often more expensive. And when it comes to the taste, it can be a “mixed picture”: there are promising bottles to be found at the more affordable end of the market but generally it’s only with the pricier bottles that “you really notice the difference in flavour”.
With dry January over, here are some of the best organic wines to try.
Yalumba Organic Viognier South Australia
With its “gentle floral, honeyed touch”, delicate notes of peach and apricot, and “creamy mouthfeel”, this “beautiful winter white will transport you to warmer months”, said Hall in The Independent.
£7.99, waitrose.com
Muscadet Chemin des Prières, Domaine Huchet 2022
Grown in the granite-based soils of Château-Thébaud, this elegant muscadet is “bursting with citrus and has a zippy saline flavour”, said Lyons in The Times. Its mineral freshness makes it the perfect pairing for light seafood dishes and charcuterie.
£12.50, thewinesociety.com
Morrisons The Best Organic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
This “vibrant” montepulciano is made using organic grapes grown by Abruzzo’s largest producer, said Hannah Crosbie in The Guardian. Ideal for pairing with rich, meaty dishes, its notes of cherry and blackberry are expertly balanced with peppery dark chocolate.
£8, morrisons.com
Co-op Fairtrade Irresistible Malbec
“You’d be forgiven for thinking” this “dangerously drinkable” Argentinian malbec is “much more expensive” than it is, said Stacey Smith in Good Housekeeping. Expect “plump, dark fruit flavours” with a “spicy finish” and “well-rounded savoury edge”.
£9, coop.co.uk
Vina Elena Pacheco Organic Monastrell 2023
Made by a well-known producer in Jumilla, this “robust and delicious” monastrell is “the kind of wine you want in terracotta jugs on a table filled with an abundant spread to share with friends”, said Hall in The Independent. Notes of “brambly dark berries” and “deep black cherry” are followed by a “sweet balsamic glaze finish”.
£12.50, noblegreenwines.co.uk