Taste-Food: This quick riff on a Vietnamese classic is a faux-pho

It would be inaccurate to call this nourishing soup an authentic Vietnamese pho. The essence of pho is a daylong-simmered broth, typically made from beef or chicken bones. A handful of whole spices, such as star anise, cinnamon, cloves and coriander, mingle with the stock, infusing the soup with layers of flavor and fragrance. The broth is then ladled into deep, wide bowls filled with rice noodles and strips of beef, chicken or perhaps tofu. A slew of fresh garnishes and bowls of spicy condiments accompany the soup, ready for dipping and scattering over the steamy bowl.

It’s understandable that a piping hot bowl of pho is a crave-able meal, especially on a cold winter evening. It’s also predictable that cravings can strike unannounced and without mercy, inconsiderate of convenience and when you are least prepared. In these urgent moments, the solution is to improvise.

This simple soup is an easy weeknight dish that mimics a pho without the loving labor of time that would make it truly authentic. It relies on a prepared or store-bought stock simmered with a few toasted aromatics to build flavor in a quickly assembled soup. You might call it a faux pho.

For this soup, use a good-quality prepared chicken stock or bone broth. For the meat, you can cook and shred chicken meat or rely on leftovers. Don’t skimp on the fresh garnishes, which are an important component of the soup: crisp bean sprouts, leafy herbs and fresh chiles, along with squirts of lime, Sriracha and hoisin provide freshness and heat to the heady broth. In pho terms, it may not be the real deal, but for an easy weeknight dinner, it’s a satisfying and slurp-worthy alternative.

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Vietnamese Chicken and Rice Noodle Soup

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

1 tablespoon neutral oil, such as grapeseed

1 large yellow onion, coarsely chopped

1 (2-inch) knob of fresh ginger, coarsely chopped

6 cloves

2 star anise

1 (2-inch) stick cinnamon

1 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

6 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

8 ounces vermicelli rice noodles

2 to 3 cups shredded cooked chicken meat

3 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced

1/4 cup fresh cilantro leaves

Garnishes:

Sliced red or green jalapeno peppers

Mung bean sprouts

Fresh mint, cilantro, and/or Thai basil leaves and sprigs

Lime wedges

Sriracha

Hoisin sauce

DIRECTIONS

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onion and ginger and saute until the onions begin to brown in spots, about 5 minutes. Add the cloves, star anise, cinnamon stick, coriander seeds and peppercorns and saute until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in the stock, fish sauce, brown sugar and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, partially cover the pot and simmer for 30 minutes.

While the soup is simmering, cook and drain the noodles according to the package directions.

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Strain the soup through a fine-mesh strainer into a clean pot. Add the chicken to the soup and simmer over medium-low until warmed through, about 5 minutes. Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning if needed.

Divide the noodles between large serving bowls. Sprinkle an even amount of scallions and cilantro over the noodles. Ladle the soup into the bowls. Serve with the garnishes.

Lynda Balslev is a San Francisco Bay Area cookbook author, food and travel writer and recipe developer. Learn more at TasteFoodBlog.com.

© Lynda Balslev, distributed by Andrews McMeel Syndication

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