Looking for crowded pool bars, over-sunning, booming bass-heavy hard rock, inflated prices and endless huge hotels? If not, read on. Those are the images many have of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula, particularly of the southern tip, known as “Los Cabos.”
But “Los Cabos” means Two Capes, and all of the above is abundant in one of those capes, Cabo San Lucas. The other cape, San Jose del Cabo, is for the rest of us.
San Jose del Cabo, located on the Gulf of California coast on the edge of a shallow bay, is 20 miles, or a 30-minute drive, northeast of Cabo San Lucas. The two towns are so close, and yet so far in ambiance.
For those of us who love Mexico for its authentic culture, history, unique gastronomy and “my house is your house” kind of hospitality, San Jose is the place. On a recent trip, I reveled while walking through the cobblestone lanes, with canopies of multicolored perforated tissue paper “papel picado” waving in the breeze. I heard scores of different languages from the pedestrian strollers during the Thursday night Art Gallery Walk. On a Sunday morning, I felt right at home as hundreds of locals participated in a fundraising marathon run. I joined in, yelling, “Dale, dale,” to encourage the stragglers.
After a four-year hiatus, the Tropicana Los Cabos reopened in August 2024 as a boutique hotel. The Tropicana is an old favorite, built in 1956. Conveniently located smack in the middle of San Jose del Cabo’s inviting arts district — surrounded by art galleries, folk-art shops and small bistros — the property has just 68 guest rooms and two suites, and is the only larger boutique property in downtown. That is correct — those seeking the all-inclusives should head to the OTHER Cabo.
The new Tropicana is atrium-style, with a courtyard sporting a heated swimming pool, two restaurants, large jacuzzi and lush tropical gardens, as well as the 90-year-old huanacaxtle tree blissfully protected during the restoration project. Under its enormous spreading branches, I enjoyed complimentary rooftop yoga and pilates sessions on the terrace.
The Tropicana also provides free bicycles, which I used for a short 15-minute cycle on the wide bike path to the ocean, where I marveled at the huge sandy beach. The next day, I cycled through the hilly, flower-bedecked residential streets of the town. San Jose del Cabo is an authentic Mexican town, replete with an open market, butcher shops and schools, along with barking dogs and roosters! I felt right at home — this is MY kind of Mexico.
San Jose’s city center has endless walkways and alleys to explore, and its lush vegetation belies its desert climate. Bougainvillea, jacaranda, hibiscus and more tumble down, and enormous saguaros and other cactus seem to find nooks and crannies everywhere to plant themselves. Due to the natural fresh water flowing into lagoons at the edge of the Sea of Cortez, the typically desert conditions of the peninsula are offset with greenery.
This part of Mexico is renowned for its superb whale watching, which is best between December and March. Mother humpback, gray and orca whales come to give birth in the warm waters of the Sea of Cortez. They then stay for a few months in this ideal breeding sanctuary until they migrate back up north for the summer months. There are several tour companies offering whale-watching excursions, most notably Cabo Adventures. Seeing a whale breach just meters away is an experience that I will never forget — one of those truly awesome moments.
One of the most extensive estuaries in northwestern Mexico is here as well. The only freshwater coastal lagoon in Baja California Sur, it is divided from the sea by a natural sand barrier. Recently restored to its natural state by environmental workers, visitors here can see several types of sea turtles that come to nest, and can observe (and possibly assist) with the release of baby turtles from July to December. The estuary was designated as a Natural Protected Area in 1994. Brown pelicans, terns, ibis, snowy egret, turkey vultures, herons and black-necked stilts live here amidst the coastal vegetation and dunes. Take a stroll to see the local fishermen and walk down to the beach where the fresh water meets the Sea of Cortez.
The town square, known as Plaza Mijares, is about a five-minute stroll from the Tropicana. Flanked by the imposing Misión de San Jose church, dating from the early 1700s, it is a perfect spot to sit and contemplate. Pigeons and people relax on benches and the stone walkways, with the lovely well-maintained gazebo in its center. Also worth a visit is the Spanish colonial-styled city hall that has expansive murals of old Baja inside its corridors and a two-story courtyard shaded by a huge Mexican laurel. Yes, anyone can enter here.
On Thursday nights from November to June, the streets close to vehicles, allowing the locals and tourists to wander by foot. The Art Walks showcase the many art galleries in San Jose del Cabo, with both traditional and modern works from renowned masters, as well as young artists with sculptures, paintings, crafts and jewelry. Many of the galleries offer wine and snacks, and several feature their artists in residence on premises.
For me, a daily stop was the Fábrica de Chocolate (Chocolate Factory), a supreme example of how Mexican chocolatiers have increasingly become world-class. When I was a university student decades ago, Mexican chocolate was grainy and too sweet. Now, shops such as this one offer the finest truffles in exotic flavors such as tequila, mezcal and even mole! The Fábrica is half a block from the Tropicana.
Worth noting is that most of the beaches in both Cabos are off-limits to swimmers, because the Sea of Cortez has strong waves, rocky bluffs and powerful undercurrents. However, there are a few safe beaches, such as Palmilla Beach (Playa Palmilla) in San Jose. This crescent-shaped beach offers excellent snorkeling and stand-up paddleboarding as well as safe swimming, and there are vendors renting umbrellas and lounge chairs. There are no restaurants, so bring snacks.
Isn’t that what some of us want? The Mexico that is often overlooked is here, in San Jose del Cabo, with charm, personality and yes, fish tacos galore!