Mortadella, a silken, fat-speckled salume from Italy, has found a place on more menus in the United States in recent years. But in Colorado, mortadella has taken a Western turn.
“We ordered local pork, but not enough came in,” recalled chef Ty Leon, co-owner of Michelin-recommended Restaurant Olivia and the upcoming Emilia. “We had bison on hand, so we thought, why not try making bison mortadella? From there, we tweaked some traditional mortadella recipes and added our own touches to come up with something that I personally enjoy.”
Bison mortadella will be one of several creative and unusual dishes that Leon plans to serve at Emilia, which is slated to open next summer. The restaurant will pay homage to the cuisine of northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region – known as the birthplace of some of Italy’s most iconic foods, including Parmigiano-Reggiano, prosciutto, balsamic vinegar and Bolognese sauce.
“Where Olivia is pasta first and Italian food second, Emilia will be Italian food first,” Leon said.
Tigelle with bison mortadella and squacquerone will be on the menu at Emilia, which is slated to open in summer 2025. (Photo by Hyoung Chang/The Denver Post)
Four years ago, Leon and business partners Austin Carson and Heather Morrison took a trip to Emilia-Romagna to visit their parmesan producer, and quickly fell in love with the cuisine and culture. “As we explored the region, we discovered so many quintessential Italian products — things you immediately think of when you think of Italian food,” he said.
“Mortadella being one of those things, and bison mortadella being our take on it,” he added.
Unlike traditional mortadella – a cured meat that is typically made with pork, peppercorns, cubes of fat and pistachios, Leon’s bison version adds more texture and brings out a slight (but not overpowering) gaminess. The result is a savory, melt-in-your-mouth take on the classic.
“We grind the bison together with local pork belly and season it. Then we grind it again, this time adding Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine from Emilia-Romagna,” Leon explained. “We mix pistachios into the sausage before pressing it into a mold and baking it in a water bath.
“After that, it’s left to rest for a few days before being thinly sliced and served. The whole process takes about 3-5 days.”
Leon sources bison from Rock River Ranch in Commerce City and Wild Idea in South Dakota – two ranches that align with his team’s commitment to humane harvesting practices.
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At Emilia, the bison mortadella will be paired with squacquerone, a creamy Italian cheese, and presented inside a tigelle – a type of flatbread normally filled with cured meats and cheeses. Leon also expects to use it in additional dishes, though he hasn’t finalized the menu. “I’m sure things will change. There’s still quite a bit to do before Emilia officially launches. I’ll probably adjust the menu up until the day before we open, but I do see the tigelle and bison mortadella as mainstays.”
The menu at Emilia, 3615 Delgany St. in Denver, will also feature inventive items like a parmesan cheesecake, made with cheese sourced from Leon’s parmesan producer in Emilia-Romagna; and a vegetarian erbazzone that forgoes the savory pie’s usual pork lard.
For Leon, it all comes down to capturing the essence of Emilia-Romagna while using locally available ingredients in Colorado.
“Emilia-Romagna is such a hospitable place, the people are so kind and genuine,” Leon recalled. “We want to recreate the same warmth and generosity we felt there for our guests.”