Just months after winning a Michelin star for his first restaurant, Alma Fonda Fina, Denver chef Johnny Curiel is opening a new concept next door.
Johnny Curiel slices fish in his new restaurant, Mezcaleria Alma, which will open in Nov. 2024. (Credit: Shawn Campbell)
Mezcaleria Alma, at 2550 15th St., will offer a seafood-forward menu and an in-house aging and brining program. Fresh fish flown in daily will make its way into dishes like a citrus-splashed aguachile with uni from Santa Barbara and a Hawaiian kampachi that’s dry-aged and served in ceviche. Other dishes will take their lead from Mexico City cuisine, including a pasilla chile-braised oxtail taco with charred avocado and beef cheeks with mole and sweet potatoes.
Stocked with 120 bottles of liquor, Mezcaleria Alma will also dig into agave-based spirits, but not just tequila and smoky mezcals (Curiel’s spirit of choice). There will also be earthy sotols and other agave spirits that are lesser-known in the United States like raicilla and bacanora. The cocktail list, created by beverage director Jen Mattioni, includes both a Carajillo made with mezcal and a beet spritz — tributes to Mexico City’s innovative bar scene.
But the restaurant will serve another purpose as well. On Tuesdays, when it is closed, Curiel plans to host other cooks and chefs who can connect and exchange ideas there. After Alma Fonda Fina was awarded a Michelin star in September, Curiel said he wanted to step into a mentorship role. Now, he plans to help Hispanic and immigrant chefs learn the ropes of running a restaurant, from obtaining liquor licenses to navigating accounting and taxes. The restaurant can also be used to host collaborative pop-ups, helping to shine a spotlight on up-and-coming chefs.
“I was put on a stage and I have a huge responsibility,” said Curial who owns both restaurants with his wife, Kasie. “I want to be a mentor and a leader.”
The Taco De Cola De Res at Mezcaleria Alma in Denver consists of a braised oxtail taco with charred avocado and pickled red onions. (Shawn Campbell)
While Alma Fonda Fina, which won its Michelin star in its first year of operation, is a tribute to the comfort dishes of Guadalajara, which is where Curiel grew up, the menu at the new restaurant will be fueled by Mexico City’s melting pot of cultures, he said.
“Alma Fonda Fina is so close to my heart. It’s the food I grew up eating. I can close my eyes and create a menu item for Alma Fonda Fina,” he explained. But Mezcaleria Alma will allow Curiel and his team “to be more playful, opening the door to new, modern cuisine that’s innovative.”
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Mezcaleria Alma will draw some similarities to Alma Fonda Fina. Diners can sit at a 10-seat chef’s counter, and engage with chefs as well as hear stories about the dishes.
The Ensalada De Tomates at Alma Mexcaleria in Denver is a succotash with burrata, green tomatoes, herbed salsa verde and candied pepitas. (Shawn Campbell)
Like the original, Mezcaleria Alma was designed by Denver-based Agatha Jane Interior Design, although the new space has an entirely different feel, blending rich textures with greenery and eclectic antiques, and art like Mexican embroidery. Treasures from Johnny’s frequent trips to Mexico are also woven into the design.
One thing Mezcaleria Alma will have that its neighbor doesn’t, though, is dessert, which will rotate with the seasons.
When Mezcaleria Alma opens, it actually will be Curiel’s third restaurant. He also owns Cozobi Fonda Fina in Boulder, which opened in July. Cozobi Fonda Fina is rooted in Mexico’s centuries-old corn nixtamalization traditions and wood-fire cooking techniques.
Mezcaleria Alma, 2550 15th St., opens Nov. 16. Hours are 4 p.m. to midnight every day except Tuesdays. Seats will be reserved for walk-ins nightly. For reservations, go to OpenTable here. For more information, go to @mezcaleriaalma on Instagram.