Milky white or in pastel hues, pearls have been rediscovered by fashion and jewellery designers. The gem is used in the London atelier of Simone Rocha – who has dotted hair ornaments, minaudières and footwear with real and faux pearls – at Miu Miu in Milan and in the Paris studios of Chanel, Dior menswear and Louis Vuitton jewellery.
It’s a revival that has been fuelled by specialist brands such as Tasaki, a heritage jeweller that has put its decades-strong experience at the service of design innovation, and this year Tasaki celebrates its 70th anniversary.
Shunsaku Tasaki established his business in 1954, when he set up as a pearl farmer in Kobe, on Japan’s Osaka Bay. He specialised in Akoya pearls, which are revered for their satin finish and delicate colouring. The business has since grown into a global luxury brand, its designs sold throughout Japan and across the world. There are Tasaki boutiques inside the Ritz Paris, on London’s New Bond Street, and at the Eden Rock on the island of St Barth’s.
Balance arm earrings in 18k white gold, diamond pavé and Akoya pearls, £9,810, from Tasaki (Image credit: Alexander Edwards)
Although Tasaki has also become recognised for its work with diamonds, pearls have remained its calling card. Today, the brand operates three pearl farms: one in the archipelago of Kujukushima, in Nagasaki’s Saikai National (marine) Park, one in the Ise-Shima National Park, and another in the Andaman Sea, near the coastlines of Thailand and Myanmar.
The business marks its milestone anniversary by releasing a line of products made in partnership with brands and creatives. Among them, a pair of trainers finessed with pearls, made in conjunction with Japanese sportswear specialist Asics, and pearl-accented frames by Japanese eyewear maker Eyevan. Melanie Georgacopoulos, a Greece-born fine jewellery designer, devised a pearl sculpture in the shape of a T-shirt, crafted from roughly 20,000 pearls.
Perhaps more wearable are additions to Tasaki’s line of Balance fine jewellery. The Balance collection was created by Thakoon Panichgul in 2010. A central motif is a quintet of pearls placed in a row, along a straight metal bar in yellow or white gold, some set with diamonds. Modern in design, the collection is also a tribute to Shunsaku Tasaki. As legend has it, the founder discovered five pearls as a child, which he carried with him throughout his life.
Good to know
Natural pearls are delicate gemstones with special care guidelines. Ideally, pearls are cleaned regularly using a microfibre cloth and stored wrapped in soft materials. Put pearls on last – after, for example, fragrance – and wear them close to the skin, as the body’s natural oils help to maintain their warm lustre.