By Melissa Clark, The New York Times
Tinned fish in pasta can be shy. Anchovies, for example, are often dissolved in oil for a midnight pasta, camouflaged under the olives of a puttanesca or hidden among garlicky breadcrumbs. Their deep umami quietly integrates the other ingredients without imposing much substance of their own. Small children and the fish-finicky are never the wiser.
Pasta with tuna, on the other hand, is fish forward. Mixed in at the end of cooking (tuna can toughen if heated too much), the chunks keep a high profile, asserting their oceanic brightness and adding protein and heft.
Tuna pasta isn’t only for fish fans, but for anyone who loves an easy, weeknight-friendly pantry meal. Stir a can or two of tuna into a big bowl of pasta and you don’t have to do much more. A few alliums sautéed in olive oil, a ladleful of pasta water and a scattering of herbs or capers are all it takes to bring everything together.
It’s pretty much the same routine with this simple recipe, with a significant, summery addition: I sauté thick zucchini slices along with some scallions and garlic, letting them condense, brown and release their sweet juices into the pan. The zucchini lightens the pasta with its soft, slippery texture, while grounding it with subtle earthy notes.
As always, when using any kind of tinned or canned fish, look for something high-quality and preferably packed in olive oil. Clear jars that allow you to see what you’re getting are often better than tins.
Many fish pasta dishes rely on red-pepper flakes for a pop of heat. But here, I wanted something brighter and rounder. So instead, I dollop on some chile paste right at the end.
Now, I’ve made this dish with several types — chile crisp, Calabrian chile paste, sambal oelek, Sriracha. Each paste contributes a host of nuances, spices and textures, leading the dish in slightly different directions. Stick with your favorite and you’ll do no wrong.
Since their heat levels vary, go slow, spooning on a little at a time and along the way. Then place the jar on the table and let your guests help themselves to more if they like. I wouldn’t overdo it, though. Tuna performs best when it has the spotlight to itself.
Zucchini Pasta With Tuna and Chile Paste
By Melissa Clark
Spaghetti with tuna is one of those adaptable pantry dishes that you can dress up with whatever you have on hand. Just cook alliums (garlic, onion, scallions or shallot) in plenty of olive oil, add pasta water and al dente pasta to the pan, and finish with a can of tuna flaked on top. This version adds zucchini, fresh herbs and any kind of chile paste you like (gochujang, harissa, aji amarillo, sambal oelek or Sriracha) for brightness and heat. Just note that some chile pastes are more fiery than others, so if you’re unsure how much to add, gradually dab it in it, tasting as you go. Then make this in summer when zucchinis are abundant, or substitute other vegetables (eggplant, peppers, greens) as they come into season. Simple, thrifty and very satisfying, it’s an after-work dish to make on repeat.
Yield: 2 to 3 servings
Total time: 30 minutes
Ingredients
1/2 teaspoon fine sea or table salt, more as needed
8 ounces long, thin pasta, such as bucatini, spaghetti or linguine
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more for drizzling
4 scallions, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated
1 pound zucchini, trimmed, halved lengthwise and sliced into 1/2-inch-thick half-moons
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons drained capers
1/2 to 3 teaspoons chile paste, more to taste
1 cup roughly chopped fresh herbs, such as cilantro and mint
1 (5- or 6-ounce) can tuna, drained
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
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Preparation
1. In a well-salted pot of boiling water, cook pasta according to package directions until al dente. Drain, saving 1/2 cup pasta water.
2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil over medium. Add scallion whites and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add zucchini and 1/2 teaspoon salt, and cook until golden brown and tender, 7 to 12 minutes. Add garlic, capers and chile paste, and cook, 1 to 2 minutes, or until the garlic is fragrant. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
3. Add 1/2 cup pasta water, let it reduce until there is just a little left in the pan, 3 to 4 minutes, then add pasta and 1/2 cup herbs, and toss well to coat. Stir in tuna and lemon juice, tossing well. Taste and add more chile paste, lemon juice or salt as needed.
4. Serve, topped with remaining 1/2 cup herbs, scallion greens, and a drizzle of olive oil.
This article originally appeared in The New York Times.